如果要在台北選一道我最喜歡的料理，我的答案一定是烤鴨。它是一道充滿歡樂氣氛的餐桌主角，而提起台北的烤鴨，我腦海中第一個浮現的，始終是龍都酒樓（Longdu）。我曾經想過要推薦一些更小眾的烤鴨店，但左思右想，龍都中山總店的地位與水準，確實難有出其右者。它唯一的缺點大概就是「很難訂」，除了這點，我幾乎想不到其他能讓我挑剔的地方。所以，這篇文章單純就是想跟你分享這間我常去、也真心喜愛的老店，以及如果真的訂不到位時，我會去的另外兩間好選擇。
If I had to choose my favorite dish in Taipei, my answer would definitely be Roast Duck. It's a dish that brings a festive atmosphere to the dining table, and when talking about Taipei's roast duck, the first place that comes to mind is always Longdu Restaurant. I considered recommending some smaller, more niche roast duck spots, but upon reflection, the standard of the Longdu Zhongshan flagship store is genuinely hard to surpass. Its only flaw is that it is "extremely difficult to book." Besides that, I can hardly find any other faults. So, I simply want to share this old shop that I frequent and genuinely love, along with two great alternatives if you can't get a table.
龍都酒樓：喧囂裡的廣式老味道
龍都酒樓創立於 1983 年，位於中山北路六條通的巷弄內。創辦人張維生先生原本是建築業出身，他在建造這棟大樓時發現，當時中山北路一帶多是日式料理店，粵菜餐廳極少。出於對粵菜的懷念，他與地主合作，開了這間酒樓。
Longdu Restaurant was founded in 1983, nestled in the alleys of Zhongshan North Road's "Six Alleys" area. The founder, Mr. Chang Wei-sheng, originally came from the construction industry. While building the complex, he noticed that the Zhongshan North Road area was dominated by Japanese restaurants, with very few Cantonese options. Driven by nostalgia for Cantonese cuisine, he partnered with the landowner to open this restaurant.
關於條通：從大正町到深夜食堂
在進入菜色之前，我想先聊聊龍都所在的「條通（Tiaotong）」。「條通」其實是日文「通（Dori）」的音譯，意指巷弄。在日治時期，這裡是名為「大正町（Taisho-cho）」的高級住宅區，住著許多日本官員。戰後，這裡演變成為在台日本人與政商名流的夜生活中心，聚集了無數的日式酒吧（Snack Bar）與俱樂部。
About Tiaotong: From Taisho-cho to Midnight DinerBefore diving into the dishes, I want to talk about "Tiaotong," where Longdu is located. "Tiaotong" is a transliteration of the Japanese word "Dori" (street). During the Japanese colonial era, this was a high-end residential area called "Taisho-cho," home to many Japanese officials. After the war, it evolved into the nightlife center for Japanese expatriates and the political-business elite, gathering countless Japanese-style bars (Snack Bars) and clubs.
正因為這裡曾是燈紅酒綠的溫柔鄉，為了滿足這些挑嘴的酒客與老闆，條通區域孕育出了極高密度的美食文化。從最高級的宴席料理到深夜的解酒熱湯，這裡的餐廳必須要有兩把刷子才能生存。龍都酒樓能在這樣激烈的戰區屹立不搖四十年，本身就證明了它的實力。這裡不只是吃飯的地方，更是台北夜生活歷史的活見證。
Precisely because this was once a bustling district of pleasure, a high-density culinary culture emerged to satisfy these picky drinkers and bosses. From top-tier banquet cuisine to late-night sobering soups, restaurants here had to be exceptional to survive. The fact that Longdu has stood firm in this competitive zone for forty years proves its strength. It is not just a place to eat, but a living witness to the history of Taipei's nightlife.
龍都初期以粵菜點心為主，後來才開始推出烤鴨。他們堅持廣式片皮鴨的做法，與源自北京、強調麥芽糖香氣的北平烤鴨不同，龍都的烤鴨，更強調肉質的豐腴多汁與皮的薄脆。他們選用宜蘭的北鴨，飼養天數必須達 90 天，確保鴨肉油脂分布均勻、肉質恰到好處。
Longdu initially focused on Cantonese dim sum but later introduced roast duck. They adhere to the Cantonese-style sliced roast duck method. Unlike the Peking Roast Duck, which emphasizes maltose glaze and aroma, Longdu's duck prioritizes succulent meat and crisp skin. They select ducks from Yilan, feeding them for 90 days to ensure the fat is evenly distributed, and the meat texture is just right.
最經典的一刻，是師傅推著整隻鴨到桌邊，當場片皮。鴨皮在師傅的熱油澆淋（搶皮）後，呈現漂亮的紅亮色澤。一刀下去，那清脆的「咔嚓」聲，就是對這道菜火候的最高肯定。
The most classic moment is when the chef wheels the whole duck to your table and slices the skin on the spot. After the chef pours hot oil over the skin (a technique called "snatching the skin"), it achieves a beautiful, glossy red hue. The crisp "crunch" sound of the first slice is the ultimate affirmation of the dish's perfect cooking temperature.
台灣烤鴨的秘密：在地化與美味
無論烤鴨在餐廳裡如何被定義為「廣式」或「北平」，在台灣，它早就演化出自己的風格。就像披薩來到台灣後，義大利人可能會覺得它變了味，但不影響它成為一道廣受喜愛的美食。台灣人喜歡的烤鴨，就是這種皮薄脆、肉多汁、能佐以台式熱炒的混血風格。龍都的成功，就在於它完美地呈現了這種「台式烤鴨」的精髓。
No matter how restaurants define their roast duck as "Cantonese" or "Peking style," in Taiwan, it has long evolved its own distinct flavor. Just as pizza changed when it came to Taiwan—perhaps unrecognizable to an Italian—it remains a delicious and beloved dish. The style of roast duck that Taiwanese people love is this hybrid: crispy skin, juicy meat, and the ability to pair it seamlessly with Taiwanese stir-fries. Longdu's success lies in its perfect embodiment of this "Taiwanese Roast Duck" essence.
我的必點清單：除了鴨，還有這些
來龍都，烤鴨是聖經，但配菜也都是神選。
Coming to Longdu, the roast duck is the Bible, but the side dishes are also divinely inspired.
- 烤鴨三吃（Roast Duck Three Ways）：
- 第一吃（片皮）： 龍都的鴨肉連皮帶肉片下來，鴨皮的脂肪在口中迅速化開，酥香而不膩。將其捲入荷葉餅中，加上脆口的大蔥和甜麵醬，那種層次感是無可取代的。
- 第二吃（鴨骨粥或薑絲皮蛋粥）： 烤鴨剩下的鴨架，通常會拿去熬粥。粥底用鴨骨熬得極為濃郁，米粒軟糯，加入皮蛋和薑絲，鮮美暖胃。這是港式做法中，最能物盡其用的智慧。
- 第三吃（酸菜鴨骨湯）： 如果不想吃粥，也可以選擇酸菜鴨骨湯，酸菜的酸爽能完美化解油膩，讓整頓飯有個清爽的結尾。
- Roast Duck Three Ways:
- First Way (Sliced Skin): Longdu's duck is sliced with both skin and meat. The duck skin fat quickly melts in the mouth, crispy and not greasy. Wrapped in a lotus leaf pancake with crunchy scallions and sweet bean sauce, the layered flavor is irreplaceable.
- Second Way (Duck Bone Congee or Ginger Century Egg Congee): The remaining duck carcass is usually used to simmer congee. The congee base is incredibly rich from the duck bones, with soft rice grains. Adding century egg and shredded ginger, it is savory and warming. This is the wisdom of the Cantonese tradition in utilizing ingredients to the fullest.
- Third Way (Pickled Cabbage and Duck Bone Soup): If you don't want congee, you can choose the pickled cabbage soup. The sourness of the pickled cabbage perfectly cuts through the oil, providing a refreshing finish to the meal.
- 生菜包蝦鬆（Lettuce Wrap with Minced Shrimp）：這道菜被許多老饕評為必點。蝦仁切丁後與馬蹄、香菇、油條等一起快炒。雖然看起來顏色清淡，但香氣十足。用冰涼的生菜將熱騰騰的蝦鬆包起來，一口咬下，生菜的脆口、油條的酥脆與蝦仁的彈牙（Q彈）在口中交織，那種多層次的口感讓人驚艷。
- Lettuce Wrap with Minced Shrimp: This dish is rated as a must-order by many connoisseurs. Diced shrimp is stir-fried with water chestnuts, mushrooms, and fried dough sticks (youtiao). Although seemingly light in color, the aroma is profound. Wrapping the hot, savory shrimp mince in cool lettuce, the combination of crispy lettuce, crunchy dough sticks, and bouncy shrimp creates a surprising multi-layered texture.
- 蠔油芥蘭（Oyster Sauce Kai-lan）與港點：龍都作為老派酒樓，點心水準極高。蟹黃蒸燒賣內餡飽滿、蝦仁鮮甜；而清炒的蠔油芥蘭則是大魚大肉間最好的平衡。那蠔油的鹹香與芥蘭的爽脆結合得恰到好處，是體現粵菜工藝的經典。
- Oyster Sauce Kai-lan and Dim Sum: As an old-school Cantonese restaurant, Longdu's dim sum standards are very high. The Steamed Siu Mai with Crab Roe is rich and savory; the stir-fried Kai-lan with Oyster Sauce is the best balance amidst heavy meat dishes. The savory oyster sauce and the crispness of the Kai-lan are perfectly matched, a classic display of Cantonese craftsmanship.
訂不到龍都也不必心碎
龍都的烤鴨必須提前預訂，如果訂不到，也不必心碎。以下兩間老字號的烤鴨店，是我個人認為在口味與歷史上都值得你一試的替代方案，且通常不會那麼難訂位。
Longdu's roast duck must be reserved in advance. If you can't get a booking, don't be heartbroken. The following two heritage roast duck restaurants are my personal recommended alternatives, both worthy of trying in terms of flavor and history, and usually less difficult to book.
1. 富順樓（Fu Shun Lou）— 平價的北平烤鴨實力派
- 特色與歷史： 富順樓是信義區的老字號北方菜館，雖然裝潢樸實，但烤鴨水準極高。不同於龍都的廣式，富順樓走的是北平烤鴨的路線。它的烤鴨皮帶著焦糖香氣，酥脆度更勝一籌。
- 推薦菜色： 烤鴨三吃依然是招牌。他們家的三杯鴨骨（將鴨架用麻油、醬油、米酒快炒）非常夠味下飯，充滿了台式熱炒的鑊氣。另外，他們的蔥油餅與酸菜白肉鍋等北方麵點與火鍋，都是行家的最愛。
2. 同慶樓（Tong Qing Lou）— 老派川菜與烤鴨的優雅結合
- 特色與歷史： 同慶樓同樣是台北的老字號，以川菜起家，但卻在菜單上加入了北平烤鴨。這裡的氛圍比富順樓更為老派、更適合正式的宴客。
- 推薦菜色： 雖然烤鴨是重點，但同慶樓的宮保雞丁與豆瓣魚等經典川菜水準極高，值得搭配烤鴨一起嘗試。他們的烤鴨口感相對內斂優雅，如果你不追求極致的「噴油」感，這會是一個非常體面的選擇。
被忽略的配角：麵食與餅類的藝術
除了烤鴨，這三間餐廳的麵食與餅類（Noodles and Pastries）也都做得相當出色，非常值得一試。在中式料理中，這類看似簡單的主食，往往最能考驗師傅的基本功。
Besides roast duck, the flour-based dishes (Noodles and Pastries) at these three restaurants are excellent and well worth trying. In Chinese cuisine, these seemingly simple staples often serve as the ultimate test of a chef's basic skills.
在龍都，你可以嘗試他們的廣式炒麵，那是粵菜對麵粉細膩處理的展現。而在富順樓與同慶樓這類北方或川菜館，蔥油餅、大餅捲牛肉或是蒸餃則是絕對不能錯過的。那種手桿麵皮特有的勁道與麵香，搭配煎得金黃酥脆的外皮，單吃就非常迷人，是搭配烤鴨大餐時最完美的配角。
At Longdu, you can try their Cantonese Chow Mein, which showcases the delicate handling of flour in Cantonese cuisine. At Northern or Sichuan establishments like Fu Shun Lou and Tong Qing Lou, Scallion Pancakes, Beef Rolls, or Steamed Dumplings are unmissable. The unique chewiness and aroma of hand-rolled dough, combined with a golden crispy crust, are enchanting even on their own, making them the perfect supporting acts for a roast duck feast.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
在台灣，吃烤鴨從來不只是一個人的事，它天生就是為了聚會而存在的。不管是龍都那碗暖胃的鴨骨粥，還是富順樓那鍋酸爽的白肉鍋，這些熱氣騰騰的食物，都需要四五個好朋友圍在一起分享才對味。
In Taiwan, eating roast duck is never a solitary act; it exists by nature for gatherings. Whether it's Longdu's warming duck bone congee or Fu Shun Lou's refreshing pickled cabbage pot, these steaming foods only taste right when shared among four or five good friends.
下次來台北，試著約幾個朋友，找一間這樣的老餐廳。不用太在意是不是米其林，只要聽到店裡那種此起彼落的碗盤聲與笑聲，你就知道你來對地方了。那種在熱氣中傳遞食物的溫度，才是我們這群人最珍惜的時光。
Next time you are in Taipei, try to gather a few friends and find an old restaurant like these. Don't worry too much about whether it has a Michelin star. As long as you hear the clatter of dishes and laughter filling the room, you know you are in the right place. That warmth of passing food through the steam is the time we cherish the most.