台北夜市的味覺巔峰:臨江街夜市,從一顆地瓜球開始的在地私房清單

The Pinnacle of Taipei's Night Markets: Linjiang Street, A Local's Private List Starting with a Sweet Potato Ball

· DINING

如果有人問我,台北最好吃的夜市在哪裡?我會毫不猶豫地把票投給臨江街夜市(Linjiang Street Night Market,老台北人習慣叫它通化夜市)。雖然它的長度不如士林,名氣不如饒河,但這裡的食物密度與美味程度,絕對是台北之冠。

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If someone asks me where the best night market in Taipei is, I would vote for Linjiang Street Night Market (known to old locals as Tonghua Night Market) without hesitation. Although it's not as long as Shilin or as famous as Raohe, the density and quality of food here are absolutely unrivaled in Taipei.

我們的旅程,必須從一顆金黃色的球體開始。你會發現,幾乎全台灣所有的夜市都有一間排隊的地瓜球名店,這似乎成了台灣夜市的「標配」。而在臨江街,我最常光顧的是位於夜市中段的「傳奇地瓜球(Legendary Sweet Potato Balls)」。看著老闆將麵團在油鍋中反覆擠壓,讓空氣進入內部,那種療癒的過程本身就是一種表演。剛炸好的地瓜球,外殼酥脆如薄紙,咬下時會聽見清脆的聲響,內裡則保留了麻糬般的軟糯(Q texture)與地瓜的香甜。這是一種純粹的、空氣感的快樂,也是開啟夜市之旅的最佳儀式。

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Our journey must begin with a golden sphere. You will find that almost every night market in Taiwan has a famous Sweet Potato Ball stall; it seems to be a standard feature. In Linjiang, my go-to is "Legendary Sweet Potato Balls" located in the middle of the market. Watching the owner repeatedly press the dough in the oil wok to force air inside is a therapeutic performance in itself. The freshly fried balls have a shell as crispy as thin paper, making a crunching sound when bitten, while the inside retains a mochi-like chewiness and the sweetness of sweet potato. It is a pure, airy joy and the best ritual to start a night market tour.

米其林光環之外:我的私房口袋名單

臨江街夜市或許是全台北擁有最多「米其林必比登(Michelin Bib Gourmand)」推薦店家的夜市。這確實證明了這裡的食物水準極高。不過,除了這些備受國際肯定的名店之外,我也想分享一些在地人私藏的心頭好。在這裡,你可以參考指南,但更可以試著相信我的品味。以下是我的私房名單:

Linjiang Street Night Market might be the one with the most Michelin Bib Gourmand recommendations in Taipei. This certainly proves the high standard of food here. However, besides these internationally recognized famous spots, I also want to share some private favorites cherished by locals. Here, you can refer to the guide, but you can also try trusting my taste. Here is my private list:

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街頭的極致工藝:小籠包與生煎包

正好鮮肉小籠湯包 (Zheng Hao Fresh Meat Xiao Long Bao)這間店的人氣極高,但我認為它值得等待。不同於餐廳裡的精緻路線,這裡展現的是街頭的生命力。你一定要試試它的招牌鮮肉湯包,皮薄到幾乎透光,卻能承載沉甸甸的湯汁。咬開時務必小心,因為滾燙的湯汁會瞬間爆發。內餡混合了豬肉的鮮甜與著名的宜蘭三星蔥,蔥的香氣濃郁且清脆,完美中和了肉汁的油膩感。那種蔥與肉的黃金比例,是粗獷中帶著細膩的美味。吃完湯包,再來一碗酸辣湯是標準配備,這裡的酸辣湯勾芡適中,胡椒的辣味與醋的酸味平衡得很好,搭配湯包一起吃,能讓身體瞬間暖和起來。

This shop is incredibly popular, but I believe it's worth the wait. Unlike the refined style of high-end restaurants, this place showcases street vitality. You must try their Signature Fresh Meat Soup Dumplings. The skin is thin enough to be translucent yet holds a heavy amount of soup. Be careful when biting in, as the scalding broth will burst out instantly. The filling mixes the sweetness of pork with famous Yilan scallions. The scallions are fragrant and crisp, perfectly balancing the richness of the meat juice. That golden ratio of scallion to meat is a delicacy that is bold yet intricate. After the dumplings, a bowl of Hot and Sour Soup is standard. The starch thickening is just right, and the balance between the heat of the pepper and the acidity of the vinegar is excellent. Pairing it with the dumplings warms the body instantly.

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林記上海生煎包 (Linji Shanghai Pan-fried Bun)這也是必吃的排隊名店。雖然只賣兩樣東西,但每一樣都做到了極致。生煎包的靈魂在於「對比」,底部的麵皮被油煎得金黃焦脆,發出咔滋的聲響;而上層的麵皮則保持了發酵麵團特有的蓬鬆與軟嫩。內餡的肉丸緊實彈牙,咬下去肉汁四溢。記得搭配店家特製的辣椒醬,那種香辣能將肉鮮味提升到另一個層次。如果你喜歡更酥脆的口感,可以試試鍋貼,它的形狀長條,煎得更為乾爽酥脆,內餡同樣飽滿,高麗菜的甜味在咀嚼中慢慢釋放,非常適合作為邊走邊吃的小點心。

This is another must-eat queuing spot. Although they only sell two items, each is executed to perfection. The soul of the Pan-fried Buns lies in "contrast." The bottom crust is pan-fried to a golden crisp, making a crunching sound, while the top dough retains the fluffiness and tenderness of fermented dough. The meatball filling is firm and bouncy, overflowing with juice. Remember to pair it with their special chili sauce; the spicy aroma elevates the meat's umami to another level. If you prefer a crispier texture, try the Potstickers. Long in shape, they are fried to be drier and crispier. The filling is equally generous, releasing the sweetness of cabbage as you chew. It's perfect as a snack to eat while walking.

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傳統的厚度:割包、米粉湯與熱炒

石家割包 (Shi Jia Gua Bao)這間在地老店販售的是台灣式漢堡——刈包(Gua Bao)。這裡的選擇非常貼心,你可以根據自己的喜好選擇肥肉、瘦肉或是綜合。我最推薦綜合刈包(半肥半瘦),肥肉的部分燉煮到入口即化,油脂的香氣滲透進鬆軟的白麵皮裡;瘦肉則保留了絲絲分明的口感,讓整體更有嚼勁。搭配酸菜的爽脆、花生粉的甜香與香菜的清新,這是一種味覺的平衡藝術,每一口都能吃到鹹、甜、香、酸的交響樂。除了刈包,這裡的八寶冬粉湯頭清澈卻鮮美,裡面有肉羹、花枝羹、蝦仁羹等多種配料,吸飽湯汁的冬粉滑順好入口,是搭配刈包的最佳夥伴。

This old local shop sells the Taiwanese burger—Gua Bao. The selection here is very thoughtful; you can choose fatty meat, lean meat, or a mix according to your preference. My top recommendation is the Mixed Gua Bao (Half Fatty, Half Lean). The fatty part is braised until it melts in your mouth, its oily aroma seeping into the fluffy white bun; the lean part retains a distinct fibrous texture, adding chewiness. Paired with crunchy pickled mustard greens, sweet peanut powder, and fresh cilantro, it is an art of flavor balance. Every bite is a symphony of salty, sweet, savory, and sour. Besides Gua Bao, the Eight Treasure Glass Noodle Soup is excellent. The broth is clear yet savory, filled with various ingredients like pork potage, squid potage, and shrimp potage. The glass noodles, soaked in broth, are smooth and easy to eat, making it the best partner for the Gua Bao.

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胡記米粉湯 (Hu Ji Rice Noodle Soup)如果你想吃得像個老台北人,請來這裡。這是一間充滿「內臟美學」的老店。這裡的米粉是粗的,口感有點像烏龍麵但更軟濡。重點是那個湯頭,吸飽了用大骨與各種內臟長時間熬煮的精華,呈現乳白色,喝起來濃郁卻不油膩。灑上一點芹菜珠與白胡椒粉,那是台灣古早味的極致。但我認為這家店真正的主角是黑白切(Side Dishes),點一份「嘴邊肉」,肉質軟嫩帶筋,口感極佳;還有「油豆腐」,吸滿了高湯,一口咬下會爆汁。沾上店家特製的蒜蓉醬油膏與薑絲,那種單純的肉香與內臟的鮮味,是深夜最撫慰人心的滋味。

If you want to eat like an old Taipei local, come here. This is an old shop full of "offal aesthetics." The rice noodles here are thick, with a texture somewhat like udon but softer. The highlight is the broth, milky white from absorbing the essence of pork bones and various offal simmered for hours. It tastes rich but not greasy. A sprinkle of celery beads and white pepper powder makes it the ultimate taste of old Taiwan. But I think the real star here is the Hei Bai Qie (Side Dishes). Order the "Pork Jowl" (Mouth Border Meat), which is tender with a bit of tendon, offering excellent texture; and the "Oily Tofu," which soaks up the broth and bursts with juice when bitten. Dipped in the special garlic soy paste and shredded ginger, the pure meat fragrance and freshness of the offal are the most comforting flavors late at night.

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深夜食堂鹹粥 (Late Night Salty Porridge)在夜市的巷弄深處,還藏著一間沒有招牌、只在深夜點亮燈火的鹹粥小攤。這是我私人的深夜食堂。這裡的鹹粥不是那種煮到軟爛的廣東粥,而是湯飯分明的台式風格。米粒在用大骨和蝦米熬煮的金黃高湯中,依然保持著顆粒感,每一口都能喝到湯頭的清甜與油蔥的香氣。來這裡絕對不能錯過它的最佳拍檔——紅燒肉。外皮炸得酥脆紅亮,肥瘦相間的五花肉在口中化開,那種油脂的罪惡感配上清爽的鹹粥,簡直是絕配。如果在微涼的深夜,這碗熱騰騰的粥能給你最踏實的溫暖。

Hidden deep in the alleys of the night market is a stall with no signboard that only lights up late at night, serving salty porridge. This is my personal late-night canteen. The salty porridge here is not the mushy Cantonese style, but the Taiwanese style where the rice grains remain distinct from the soup. The rice swims in a golden broth simmered with pork bones and dried shrimp, retaining its texture, while every spoonful delivers the sweetness of the broth and the aroma of fried shallots. You absolutely cannot miss its perfect partner—Red Yeast Pork (Hong Shao Rou). Fried to a crispy, bright red finish, the streaky pork belly melts in your mouth. That guilty pleasure of fat paired with the refreshing porridge is a match made in heaven. On a cool late night, this steaming bowl of porridge offers the most grounded warmth.

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駱記小炒 (Luo Ji Stir-fry)這間店曾獲必比登推薦,但我認為它實至名歸。這裡的菜單非常簡單,專注於「大火快炒」。炒牛肉與炒羊肉是必點,肉片經過醃漬,口感滑嫩,與空心菜一起在極高溫的鐵鍋中翻炒。你可以聞到濃烈的「鑊氣(Wok Hei)」,那是蒜頭、沙茶、辣椒與九層塔在高溫下逼出的焦香。每一口肉都帶著微微的焦炭氣息與辛辣感,非常下飯(或下酒)。另外,炒蛤仔也是一絕,新鮮的蛤蠣搭配九層塔與薑絲快炒,蛤蠣肉飽滿多汁,底下的湯汁更是鮮美到讓人想把盤子舔乾淨。這是一場味覺的重金屬搖滾,強烈、直接、過癮。不過,這裡有個小小的運氣成分。根據我的經驗,大概有十分之一的機會,你可能會遇到師傅失手(或是換人炒),導致鑊氣不足或是口感略顯普通。但別擔心,這就像是一場小小的賭注,大部分時候,你贏得的都是美味。

This shop has been recommended by Bib Gourmand, and I think it's well-deserved. The menu is simple, focusing on "high-heat stir-frying." Stir-fried Beef and Lamb are must-orders. The marinated meat slices are smooth and tender, stir-fried with water spinach in an extremely hot wok. You can smell the intense "Wok Hei," the charred aroma forced out of garlic, shacha sauce, chili, and basil by the heat. Every bite of meat carries a slight charcoal scent and spiciness, perfect with rice (or beer). Additionally, the Stir-fried Clams are superb; fresh clams stir-fried with basil and shredded ginger. The clam meat is plump and juicy, and the broth at the bottom is so savory you'll want to lick the plate. It is a heavy metal rock concert for your taste buds—intense, direct, and satisfying. However, there is a small element of luck here. In my experience, there is about a one-in-ten chance that the chef might have an off moment (or it's a different cook), resulting in a lack of "Wok Hei" or a mediocre texture. But don't worry, it's like a small gamble; most of the time, you win a delicious meal.

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格登炸雞 (Golden Fried Chicken)同樣是必比登推薦。它能脫穎而出,靠的是對傳統的堅持。炸雞翅是店裡的靈魂,它的外皮不是那種厚重的美式鱗片,而是傳統的薄粉濕漿。炸得金黃酥脆,咬開時,你會驚訝於裡面的雞肉竟然還鎖著滿滿的肉汁。那種單純的椒鹽香氣,沒有過多的調味,卻能讓人一支接一支停不下來。如果你喜歡大口吃肉,炸雞腿是更好的選擇,肉質紮實鮮嫩,皮肉不分離。這就是小時候放學在路邊會吃到的那種味道,簡單卻無敵。

Also a Bib Gourmand recommendation. It stands out by sticking to tradition. The Fried Chicken Wings are the soul of the shop. The crust is not the thick American-style batter, but a traditional thin wet batter. Fried to a golden crisp, you'll be surprised by the juices locked inside the chicken when you bite in. The simple salt and pepper aroma, without excessive seasoning, makes it impossible to stop at just one. If you like a mouthful of meat, the Fried Chicken Thigh is a better choice. The meat is solid and tender, with the skin clinging perfectly. This is the taste of after-school snacks from childhood—simple yet invincible.

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關於鹽水雞的誠實建議:小胖 vs. 紅花

來到臨江街夜市口,你一定會看到「紅花麻辣鹽水雞」那驚人的排隊人龍。但我必須以朋友的身份真誠分享我的個人喜好:與其花長時間排隊,我更常往裡面走一點,尋找「小胖好吃鹽水雞」

Honest Advice on Salted Chicken: Xiao Pang vs. Hong HuaAt the entrance of the night market, you will inevitably see the shocking queue for "Hong Hua Spicy Salted Chicken." But as a friend, I must sincerely share my personal preference: instead of spending a long time queuing, I usually walk a bit further in and look for "Xiao Pang Salted Chicken."

小胖的招牌鹽水雞處理得極好,皮脆肉嫩,完全不乾柴。老闆會貼心地幫你去骨,並剪成一口大小。調味的層次感很棒,胡椒的香氣、蔥蒜的辛辣與雞肉的鮮甜完美融合。吃鹽水雞不能沒有蔬菜,這裡的小黃瓜、花椰菜依然保有清脆的口感,不會因為醃漬而變得軟爛。特別是小黃瓜,吸附了雞汁與蒜水的精華,清爽又夠味。把時間省下來去吃別的,你會更快樂。

Xiao Pang's Signature Salted Chicken is handled excellently; the skin is crunchy and the meat is tender, not dry at all. The owner thoughtfully debones it and cuts it into bite-sized pieces. The seasoning has great depth, perfectly blending the aroma of pepper, the spiciness of scallions and garlic, and the sweetness of the chicken. You can't have salted chicken without vegetables; the cucumber and broccoli here remain crisp and don't get mushy from marinating. Especially the cucumber, which absorbs the essence of chicken juice and garlic water—refreshing and flavorful. Save the queuing time for other food, and you'll be happier.

甜點與意外的驚喜

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御品元冰火湯圓 (Yu Pin Yuan Iced Fire Tangyuan)這是整趟旅程的高潮。這碗甜點玩弄著溫度的反差。經典款是桂花綜合湯圓(冰),滾燙的芝麻與花生湯圓,直接鋪在細緻的剉冰上,最後淋上自家熬煮的桂花蜜。你要趁熱吃下湯圓,感受軟糯外皮與流沙餡料的溫暖,接著再挖一口帶有清雅花香的冰。那種「冰火五重天」的口感衝擊,非常迷人。如果天氣冷,可以試試酒釀加蛋湯圓(熱),發酵的酒釀帶著微酸的香氣,打入蛋花後更加滑順,喝下去全身暖呼呼的,是非常傳統的滋補甜品。記得,吃完湯圓後,剩下的冰可以再去櫃檯加檸檬汁,變成清爽的檸檬桂花冰,一碗兩吃。

This is the climax of the journey. This dessert plays with temperature contrast. The classic version is the Osmanthus Mixed Tangyuan (Iced). Boiling hot sesame and peanut tangyuan (glutinous rice balls) are laid directly on fine shaved ice, then drizzled with homemade osmanthus syrup. You must eat the tangyuan while they are hot to feel the warmth of the chewy skin and molten filling, then take a bite of the floral-scented ice. That "Fire and Ice" sensation is captivating. If it's cold, try the Fermented Rice Soup with Egg and Tangyuan (Hot). The fermented rice soup has a slightly sour aroma, made smoother by the egg drop. It warms your whole body and is a very traditional nourishing dessert. Remember, after finishing the tangyuan, you can add lemon juice to the remaining ice at the counter, turning it into a refreshing lemon osmanthus ice—two ways to eat one bowl.

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愛玉之夢遊仙草 (Aiyu Jelly Dream)如果你想找更傳統的冰品,這間店是經典。這裡的愛玉檸檬冰使用台灣特有的植物凍飲愛玉,口感像果凍但更軟嫩,搭配現擠的檸檬汁與蜂蜜,酸酸甜甜,是解膩消暑的最佳良方。另一道推薦是仙草奶凍,仙草帶有濃郁的草本香氣,口感滑順,淋上奶油球後,黑白交融,奶香與仙草的微苦甘味結合成一種大人小孩都愛的味道。

If you are looking for more traditional icy treats, this shop is a classic. The Aiyu Lemon Ice uses Aiyu, a unique Taiwanese plant-based jelly, texture-like jelly but softer. Paired with freshly squeezed lemon juice and honey, it is sweet and sour, the best remedy for greasiness and heat. Another recommendation is the Grass Jelly with Creamer. The Grass Jelly has a rich herbal aroma and smooth texture. After pouring the creamer, the black and white blend, combining the milky scent with the slight herbal bitterness of the jelly into a flavor loved by all ages.

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佐卡義式窯烤披薩屋 (Zoca Pizza)最後,我要推薦一個「違和」的選擇。在夜市旁邊,有一間由義大利人開的窯烤披薩店。我甚至不確定這是否算夜市食物,但因為它真的太好吃了,走過去也很近,所以是我的愛店。瑪格麗特披薩最簡單也最考驗功力,薄脆的餅皮帶有窯烤的焦香,番茄醬酸度適中,莫札瑞拉起司奶香濃郁,那是義大利原本的味道。如果你喜歡重口味,薩拉米披薩非常開胃,鹹香的臘腸在烘烤後油脂滲出,與起司融為一體。當你吃膩了台式重口味小吃,想要轉換一下味蕾時,這裡是一個像綠洲般的存在。

Finally, I want to recommend a "dissonant" choice. Next to the night market, there is a wood-fired pizza place run by an Italian. I am not even sure if this counts as night market food, but it is genuinely delicious and just a short walk away, making it one of my favorite spots. The Margherita Pizza is the simplest yet the best test of skill. The thin, crispy crust carries the charred aroma of the wood fire, the tomato sauce has the right acidity, and the mozzarella is rich and creamy. It is the original taste of Italy. If you like strong flavors, the Salami Pizza is very appetizing. The salty salami releases oil during baking, melding with the cheese. When you are tired of heavy Taiwanese flavors and want to switch up your palate, this place is like an oasis.

CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends

我想和你分享一個心得:臨江街夜市之所以是我心中的第一名,不只是因為食物,更因為它那種「混亂中的秩序」。這裡有米其林的光環,也有在地人的堅持;有大排長龍的名店,也有像那些安靜的實力派。來到這裡,請放慢腳步,不要迷信排隊,試著用你的鼻子和直覺去探索。買一袋炸雞,邊走邊吃,感受那種被食物熱氣與人潮喧鬧包圍的幸福感。這就是台北夜色最迷人的樣子。

I want to share a thought with you: The reason Linjiang Street Night Market is number one in my heart is not just because of the food, but because of its "order within chaos." Here, there are Michelin halos and local persistence; there are famous shops with long queues, and quiet, capable spots like them. When you come here, please slow down, don't blindly follow the lines, and try to explore with your nose and intuition. Buy a bag of fried chicken, eat while walking, and feel the happiness of being surrounded by the heat of food and the noise of the crowd. This is the most charming aspect of Taipei's night scene.