對於生活在台北的人來說，陽明山（Yangmingshan）是我們逃離都市喧囂的最近出口。特別是在 5 月到 7 月 這個季節，當台北盆地開始變得悶熱難耐時，這裡就是天然的冷氣房。這段時間也是陽明山生態最活躍的時刻——蝴蝶在飛舞，蟬鳴在迴盪。你不需要攜帶重裝備，只需穿上一雙好走的鞋，就能在半小時內從繁華的信義區切換到雲霧繚繞的山林模式。今天我想像朋友一樣帶你走三條我私藏的路線，去聽聽森林的聲音，看看那些可愛的野生動物。而在流汗之後，我們還要去一間獲得米其林必比登推薦的老店，用最道地的山產慰勞自己。
For those living in Taipei, Yangmingshan is the nearest escape from the urban hustle. Especially during the season from May to July, when the Taipei Basin starts to become stiflingly hot, this place serves as a natural air conditioner. This is also the time when Yangmingshan's ecology is most active—butterflies dancing and cicadas buzzing. You don't need heavy gear—just a pair of comfortable shoes, and within 30 minutes, you can switch from the bustling Xinyi District to a misty mountain forest mode. Today, like a friend, I want to take you on three of my private routes to listen to the forest and see the lovely wildlife. And after breaking a sweat, we will head to a Michelin Bib Gourmand-recommended old restaurant to reward ourselves with the most authentic mountain cuisine.
1. 二子坪步道：蝴蝶與森林的溫柔擁抱
Erziping Trail: A Gentle Embrace of Butterflies and Forest
如果你是在 5 月或 6 月來，我強烈推薦你來二子坪。這裡被稱為「蝴蝶花廊」，正值澤蘭盛開的季節，你會看到成千上萬隻青斑蝶（Chestnut Tiger Butterfly）在你身邊飛舞，那種被生命力包圍的感覺非常夢幻。
If you visit in May or June, I strongly recommend Erziping. Known as the "Butterfly Corridor," this is the season when the Eupatorium blooms. You will see thousands of Chestnut Tiger Butterflies dancing around you; the feeling of being surrounded by such vitality is dreamlike.
- 難度 (Difficulty)： ★☆☆☆☆（極易 / Very Easy）
- 距離 (Distance)： 單程約 1.8 公里 (One way approx. 1.8 km)
- 風景與感受 (Scenery & Feeling)： 步道兩旁是茂密的闊葉林，陽光透過樹葉灑下的光斑（Komorebi）非常迷人。這裡的坡度平緩到幾乎感覺不到，連嬰兒車都能推。走在裡面，你會感到一種被森林溫柔接納的安全感。請留意樹梢，運氣好的話，你會看見台灣藍鵲（Taiwan Blue Magpie）拖著長長的藍色尾巴滑翔而過，或是聽到五色鳥（Muller's Barbet）像敲木魚一樣的叫聲。終點是一片開闊的人工濕地，坐在池塘邊發呆，聽著蛙鳴，是讓大腦重新開機最好的方式。
- 交通 (Transport)： 搭乘公車 108（遊園公車）至「二子坪站」。
2. 夢幻湖步道：聽見寂靜的聲音
Menghuan Lake Trail: Hearing the Sound of Silence
這是一條稍微需要一點腳力，但回報率極高的短程路線。這裡保護著全世界極為稀有的水生蕨類——台灣水韭（Taiwan Isoetes）。
This is a short route that requires a bit of leg strength but offers a high return. It protects one of the world's rarest aquatic ferns—the Taiwan Isoetes.
- 難度 (Difficulty)： ★★☆☆☆（短但陡峭 / Short but Steep）
- 距離 (Distance)： 環狀約 2.5 公里 (Loop approx. 2.5 km)
- 風景與感受 (Scenery & Feeling)： 步道一開始就是略陡的石階，會讓你稍微喘氣，但堅持約 20 分鐘就能抵達湖邊。夢幻湖正如其名，長年雲霧繚繞。當雲霧散去，平靜無波的湖面倒映著七星山的剪影，那種靜謐感具有強大的療癒力量。在這裡，你會發現聲音是被「吸」進去的，安靜到連自己的呼吸聲都聽得見。偶爾，你會在草叢間看到赤腹松鼠（Red-bellied Squirrel）跳躍的身影，或是聽見台北樹蛙的鳴叫。這是一個適合獨處與思考的地方。
- 交通 (Transport)： 搭乘公車 108 至「夢幻湖站」或「冷水坑站」。
3. 頂山石梯嶺步道：迷霧森林與草原上的牛
Dingshan - Shitiling Trail: Misty Forests and Cattle on the Grassland
如果你想體驗更開闊的視野，這條步道是我的最愛。它串連了風櫃嘴與擎天崗，沿途地形變化豐富，有種走在歐洲稜線上的錯覺。
If you want to experience a broader view, this trail is my favorite. connecting Fengguizui and Qingtiangang. The terrain varies richly along the way, giving the illusion of walking on an European ridge.
- 難度 (Difficulty)： ★★★☆☆（中等 / Moderate）
- 距離 (Distance)： 單程約 6.4 公里 (One way approx. 6.4 km)
- 風景與感受 (Scenery & Feeling)： 這條路最迷人的是它穿越了一片幽靜的柳杉林（Japanese Cedar Forest）。走進林間，空氣中瀰漫著淡淡的杉木香氣，高聳的樹幹讓光線變得柔和，彷彿置身於迷霧森林中。走出森林後，迎接你的是開闊的草原。你極有機會在步道上遇見野放的水牛群（Water Buffaloes）在吃草，那是陽明山最標誌性的風景。看著牛群悠閒地漫步，你會覺得人類的煩惱在自然面前是多麼渺小。
- 交通 (Transport)： 可搭乘公車市民小巴 1 至「風櫃嘴站」，或搭小 15 至「擎天崗站」反向走。
【在地人的貼心提醒：交通、天氣與補給】【Local's Tips: Traffic, Weather, and Supplies】在出發前，有幾件重要的事情要提醒你。首先，這三條步道距離接下來要介紹的餐廳「松竹園」，車程大約都在 30 分鐘左右。雖然一般人習慣先運動再吃飯，但我私心建議：先去餐廳吃飽喝足，再去走步道（特別是輕鬆的二子坪）。這樣不僅能避開用餐尖峰，帶著滿足的胃口在森林裡散步，更是另一種享受。
另外，陽明山的天氣捉摸不定，山下晴天山上可能起霧飄雨，請務必攜帶雨具與保暖衣物。步道沿途多無商店，請務必準備充足的水與乾糧（補給），隨時補充體力。
Before you go, here are a few important reminders. First, the drive from these three trails to the restaurant "Songzhu Yuan" introduced next is about 30 minutes. While most people hike then eat, I personally suggest: Eat your fill at the restaurant first, then go for a walk (especially the easy Erziping). This avoids peak dining times, and walking in the forest with a satisfied stomach is a unique pleasure.Also, Yangmingshan's weather is unpredictable; it might be sunny at the foot but foggy and rainy at the top, so please bring rain gear and warm clothes. There are mostly no shops along the trails, so be sure to bring sufficient water and snacks to replenish your energy.
運動後的盛宴（或是先吃再走）：松竹園的土雞傳說
位於陽明山半山腰的「松竹園（Songzhu Yuan）」，是在地經營超過 30 年的老字號，更連續多年獲得米其林必比登推薦。
Located halfway up Yangmingshan, "Songzhu Yuan" is a venerable establishment operating for over 30 years and has been recommended by the Michelin Bib Gourmand for consecutive years.
但我必須給你一個真誠的建議：千萬不要在假日來。 假日的松竹園人聲鼎沸，像個戰場，你很難優雅地享受美食。請選在平日的中午或晚上造訪，那時你才能真正體會到這間店的從容與美味。
But I must give you a sincere piece of advice: Do not come here on weekends. On weekends, Songzhu Yuan is loud and crowded like a battlefield; it is hard to enjoy the food elegantly. Please visit on a weekday lunch or dinner, when you can truly appreciate the restaurant's composure and deliciousness.
這間店最初是以自家養殖的土雞起家，食材的新鮮度是他們最大的底氣。以下是我個人的必點清單：
This restaurant started with home-raised free-range chickens, and the freshness of their ingredients is their greatest asset. Here is my personal must-order list:
黃金脆皮雞 (Golden Crispy Chicken)這是松竹園絕對的招牌，也是我最推薦的一道菜。不同於一般的白斬雞，它是先用中藥材醃漬後，淋上麥芽糖水風乾再烤。雞皮呈現誘人的金黃色，咬下去薄脆如紙，發出咔滋聲響；裡面的雞肉卻依然鮮嫩多汁，帶有淡淡的煙燻與藥膳香氣。這是一種口感的極致對比，來這裡沒吃這道等於沒來。
- Golden Crispy Chicken: This is the absolute signature dish and my top recommendation. Unlike standard boiled chicken, it is marinated in Chinese herbs, glazed with maltose water, air-dried, and then roasted. The skin is an enticing golden yellow, thin and crispy like paper, cracking when bitten; the meat inside remains tender and juicy, with a faint aroma of smoke and herbs. It is the ultimate contrast in texture. A visit here without trying this dish is incomplete.
山珍野味：滷肉、鹹豬肉與封肉 (Braised Pork, Salted Pork & Feng Rou)除了雞肉，這裡的豬肉料理也非常出色。如果你喜歡下飯的菜，滷肉與封肉（Braised Pork Belly）燉煮得軟爛入味，肥肉部分入口即化，滿滿的膠質會黏住嘴唇。如果你想喝點啤酒，鹹豬肉則是絕佳選擇，外皮烤得焦香，鹹味適中，搭配蒜苗一起吃，越嚼越香。
- Mountain Delicacies: Braised & Salted Pork: Besides chicken, the pork dishes here are excellent. If you like dishes that go well with rice, the Braised Pork and Feng Rou (Braised Pork Belly) are stewed until tender and flavorful; the fatty parts melt in your mouth, leaving a sticky, collagen-rich sensation. If you want something to pair with beer, Salted Pork is the perfect choice. The skin is roasted to a charred fragrance, moderately salty, and becomes more flavorful the more you chew it with garlic sprouts.
桂竹筍 (Braised Bamboo Shoots)來到山上，怎能不吃竹筍？這裡的桂竹筍使用雞高湯煨煮，筍肉吸飽了湯汁的鮮甜，卻依然保持著脆嫩的口感。這是吃完大魚大肉後，最棒的平衡劑。
- Braised Bamboo Shoots: How can you come to the mountains without eating bamboo shoots? The bamboo shoots here are braised in chicken broth. The shoots absorb the savory sweetness of the broth while retaining their crisp and tender texture. It is the best balancer after a meal of rich meats.
清脆時蔬：水蓮與高麗菜 (Stir-fried Water Snowflake & Cabbage)山上的青菜就是不一樣。我會特別推薦水蓮（White Water Snowflake），這是一種長在水裡的細長蔬菜，口感非常清脆，帶有一種獨特的爽口嚼勁。另外，高麗菜在山上因為溫差大，吃起來特別鮮甜。這兩道菜簡單清炒，就能展現食材最純粹的美味。
- Crisp Seasonal Greens: Water Snowflake & Cabbage: Mountain vegetables are just different. I highly recommend Water Snowflake, a slender aquatic vegetable with an incredibly crisp texture and a unique, refreshing chewiness. Also, the Cabbage, due to the temperature difference on the mountain, tastes exceptionally sweet. Simple stir-frying brings out the purest deliciousness of these ingredients.
手工小饅頭 (Handmade Mini Buns)這是陽明山大部分餐廳的招牌主食，松竹園也不例外。一籠色彩繽紛的小饅頭，有黑糖、芋頭、地瓜三種口味，口感鬆軟帶 Q。用它來夾著鹹豬肉或是沾著封肉的醬汁吃，是內行人的隱藏吃法。
- Handmade Mini Buns: This is the signature staple food of most restaurants on Yangmingshan, and Songzhu Yuan is no exception. A basket of colorful mini buns comes in brown sugar, taro, and sweet potato flavors, soft yet chewy. Using them to sandwich the salted pork or dipping them in the braised pork sauce is a pro tip.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想和你分享一個心得：陽明山對台北人來說，是一種生活節奏的調節器。我們上山，是為了讓眼睛看見綠色，讓肺部交換乾淨的空氣；而下山前的那頓飯，則是為了讓身心靈都得到滿足的落地儀式。在平日的午後，走完一條安靜的步道，再到松竹園吃一盤黃金脆皮雞配上清甜的高麗菜，你會發現，這就是屬於台北人的「小確幸」。這種山林與美食的結合，是這座城市最溫柔的待客之道。
I want to share a thought with you: For Taipei residents, Yangmingshan is a regulator of life's rhythm. We go up the mountain to let our eyes see green and our lungs exchange fresh air; the meal before descending is a grounding ritual that satisfies both body and soul. On a weekday afternoon, after walking a quiet trail and having a plate of Golden Crispy Chicken with sweet cabbage at Songzhu Yuan, you will discover this is the "Little Happiness" belonging to Taipei people. This combination of mountains and cuisine is the city's gentlest way of hospitality.