如果說雪山隧道（Hsuehshan Tunnel）的開通，是宜蘭人的福音，那對於坪林來說，曾被視為一場經濟上的惡夢。還記得在 2006 年以前，這裡是往返台北與宜蘭的必經休息站，總是車水馬龍，喧囂不已。但當隧道通車後，車流瞬間消失，坪林彷彿被按下了暫停鍵。然而，十幾年過去了，我們才驚訝地發現，這場「被遺忘」其實是上天給予坪林最好的禮物。因為商業的撤退，這裡保留了台北近郊最純淨的水源、最清新的空氣，以及一種難得的、慢節奏的寧靜。特別是如果你選在 5 月到 7 月造訪，這裡將會展現出一年中最有生命力的樣貌——從初夏的螢火蟲、剛上市的春茶，到盛夏溪谷裡的清涼，都是這個季節限定的奢侈享受。
If the opening of the Hsuehshan Tunnel was a blessing for Yilan, it might have initially seemed like an economic nightmare for Pinglin. I remember before 2006, Pinglin was the mandatory rest stop between Taipei and Yilan, always bustling with traffic and noise. But when the tunnel opened, the cars vanished instantly, and Pinglin seemed to hit the pause button. However, over a decade later, we are surprised to find that this "being forgotten" was actually the best gift nature could offer. With the retreat of commerce, Pinglin has preserved the purest water sources near Taipei, the freshest air, and a rare, slow-paced tranquility. Especially if you visit between May and July, the area reveals its most vibrant face of the year—from early summer fireflies and freshly released spring tea to the coolness of the river valleys in midsummer, all are exclusive luxuries of this season.
蕨類天堂與水中的螢火蟲
來到坪林，我最喜歡先去體驗這裡的生態。金瓜寮魚蕨步道（Jinguashi Fish Fern Trail）是我私心最推薦的起點。這裡因為長年潮濕多雨，孕育了極為豐富的蕨類生態。走在步道上，請抬頭看看那些高大的筆筒樹（Flying Spider-monkey Tree Fern），它們是來自侏羅紀時代的活化石，巨大的葉片在空中展開，像是撐起了一把把綠色的古老雨傘。而在腳邊，你會看到各種形狀的山蘇與伏石蕨攀附在樹幹與岩石上，這種層次豐富的綠意，是熱帶雨林才有的深邃。
When I come to Pinglin, I love to start by experiencing the ecology here. The Jinguashi Fish Fern Trail is my personal favorite starting point. Due to the perennial humidity and rain, this area nurtures an incredibly rich variety of ferns. As you walk along the trail, look up at the tall Flying Spider-monkey Tree Ferns; they are living fossils from the Jurassic era, with massive fronds spreading out in the sky like ancient green umbrellas. At your feet, you will see Bird's-nest Ferns and Lemmaphyllum microphyllum clinging to tree trunks and rocks. This layered greenery possesses the depth found only in tropical rainforests.
最讓我感動的，是這裡的溪水與生命。坪林之所以能擁有如此令人驚嘆的生態，歸功於當地實施了非常嚴格的「封溪護魚」政策。這不僅僅是有季節性的禁漁期，在許多河段更是長年禁止任何形式的垂釣與捕撈。正因為這種人類主動退讓、對自然的絕對尊重，這裡的魚群完全不怕人。你肉眼就能看見成群的苦花魚（Taiwan Kupper Fish）在清澈見底的水中翻身。這種魚有一個可愛的習性，牠們在啃食石頭上的苔蘚時會側身翻轉，銀白色的魚腹在陽光下閃爍，因此我們給了牠一個美麗的名字——「水中螢火蟲」。
What moves me most is the water and life here. The reason Pinglin boasts such amazing ecology is due to the strict "Stream Sealing and Fish Conservation" policy implemented locally. This isn't just a seasonal fishing ban; in many river sections, all forms of fishing and catching are prohibited year-round. Because of this human retreat and absolute respect for nature, the fish here are completely unafraid of people. You can see schools of Taiwan Kupper Fish flipping in the crystal-clear water with your naked eye. This fish has a cute habit: when they scrape moss off the rocks, they turn sideways, and their silvery-white bellies flash in the sunlight, earning them the beautiful nickname "underwater fireflies."
除了水裡的，如果你是在 5 月造訪，傍晚時分甚至有機會在草叢間看到真正的螢火蟲（Fireflies），那種天上地下同時閃爍的光點，是生態環境最純淨的證明。而到了 6、7 月盛夏，這裡更是躲避台北盆地悶熱的最佳避暑勝地，光是把腳泡在冰涼的溪水裡，就足以消暑。
Besides those in the water, if you visit in May, you might even see real fireflies in the grass at dusk. The twinkling lights in the sky and water are proof of the pristine environment. By June and July, this becomes the best summer retreat to escape Taipei's stifling heat; just dipping your feet in the icy stream is enough to cool you down.
白鷺鷥公寓與森林的鳥鳴
還有一個我很愛去發呆的地方，就是逮魚堀溪自行車道（Daiyujue Stream Bike Path）。在這裡，你會經過著名的白鷺鷥公寓。看著成千上萬隻白鷺鷥（Little Egret）與黃頭鷺（Cattle Egret）在樹梢築巢，白色的鳥影點綴在翠綠的山谷間，那是生態恢復最直接的證明。
Another spot where I love to just zone out is the Daiyujue Stream Bike Path. Here, you will pass the famous "Egret Apartment." Watching thousands of Little Egrets and Cattle Egrets nesting in the treetops, with white silhouettes dotting the emerald valley, is the most direct proof of ecological restoration.
如果你運氣夠好，還能在溪邊看見那抹藍色的閃電——翠鳥（Kingfisher）正在等待捕魚的瞬間；或是在樹林間聽到粗啞的叫聲，抬頭一看，或許就是台灣特有種的台灣藍鵲（Taiwan Blue Magpie）拖著長長的藍色尾羽飛過。在這裡騎車或散步，聽著水聲與鳥鳴，真的會忘記自己離繁忙的台北市區其實只有 40 分鐘車程。
If you are lucky enough, you might spot a flash of blue by the stream—a Kingfisher waiting for the moment to catch a fish; or hear a raucous call in the woods, look up, and perhaps see the endemic Taiwan Blue Magpie flying past with its long blue tail feathers. Cycling or walking here, listening to the sounds of water and birds, you really forget that you are actually only a 40-minute drive from the busy center of Taipei.
南山寺：雲端上的茶園秘境
如果你想看更壯闊的風景，我建議往山上走，去南山寺仙公廟（Nanshan Temple）。這裡的停車場本身就是一個絕佳的觀景台，可以俯瞰層層疊疊的茶園與蜿蜒的北勢溪。
If you want grander scenery, I suggest driving up the mountain to Nanshan Temple (Xiangong Temple). The parking lot itself is an excellent observation deck, offering a panoramic view of the layered tea plantations and the winding Beishi Stream.
但我通常不會停在這裡，而是繼續往旁邊的開眼崙登山步道（Kaiyanlun Trail）走去。這條路徑並不長，但視野極佳。當你走到南山寺景觀平台時，你會被眼前的景象震懾：整齊劃一的茶樹像綠色的波浪一樣鋪滿山坡，運氣好的話，還能遇見坪林著名的雲海（Sea of Clouds）。在那裡，時間像是靜止的，只有風吹過茶葉的沙沙聲。這是我心中適合獨處、放空，與天地對話的秘境。
But I usually don't stop there; I continue walking towards the adjacent Kaiyanlun Trail. The path isn't long, but the view is superb. When you reach the Nanshan Temple Viewing Platform, you will be awestruck: neat rows of tea bushes cover the hillsides like green waves. If you are lucky, you might encounter Pinglin's famous Sea of Clouds. There, time seems to stand still, leaving only the rustling of the wind through the tea leaves. It is my personal hidden gem for solitude, zoning out, and conversing with nature.
寧靜老街：石頭屋與保坪宮
下山後，可以去坪林老街（Pinglin Old Street）晃晃。不同於九份或深坑那種人聲鼎沸的觀光老街，平日的坪林老街安靜得像一幅畫。這裡保留了許多傳統的石頭屋，這是早期居民就地取材，從北勢溪搬運大石塊堆砌而成的建築，充滿了粗獷的力度與生存的智慧。
After descending the mountain, you can wander around Pinglin Old Street. Unlike the bustling tourist old streets of Jiufen or Shenkeng, Pinglin Old Street on weekdays is as quiet as a painting. It preserves many traditional "Stone Houses," built by early residents using large stones carried from the Beishi Stream. These structures are full of rugged strength and the wisdom of survival.
老街的盡頭是保坪宮（Baoping Temple），這是坪林人的信仰中心。走到這裡，老街的行程也就差不多結束了。這裡沒有過度商業化的叫賣聲，只有幾間賣豆腐、茶葉蛋的小店，以及坐在門口曬太陽的老人家。這份寧靜，才是我覺得坪林最迷人的特產。
At the end of the Old Street lies Baoping Temple, the spiritual center of Pinglin. Once you reach here, the tour of the Old Street is essentially complete. There are no overly commercialized hawkers, just a few small shops selling tofu and tea eggs, and elderly people sitting at their doorsteps soaking up the sun. This tranquility, I feel, is Pinglin's most charming specialty.
包種茶與東方美人：清香與蜜味的對話
來到坪林，如果不喝茶，就等於沒來過。雖然坪林茶業博物館的建築很美，但我個人覺得你不需要花太多時間參觀展覽，反倒是直接去老街上或是茶農開設的茶行，更值得你駐足。
Coming to Pinglin without drinking tea is like not having been there at all. Although the architecture of the Pinglin Tea Museum is beautiful, I personally feel you don't need to spend too much time on the exhibitions. Instead, heading directly to the tea shops on the Old Street or those run by tea farmers is more worth your time.
台灣以烏龍茶（Oolong Tea）聞名，但坪林盛產的是「文山包種茶（Wenshan Pouchong Tea）」。這兩者有什麼不同？我們用最直觀的方式來分：
- 看形狀：烏龍茶通常被揉成緊實的「球狀」；而包種茶則是自然的「條索狀」（長條形）。
- 喝味道：烏龍茶比較重口味，帶有發酵與烘焙的厚實感；包種茶則非常清爽，喝起來有一種獨特的「花香」，很像綠茶但沒有那麼生澀，非常優雅。
Taiwan is famous for Oolong Tea, but Pinglin specializes in "Wenshan Pouchong Tea." What's the difference? Let's distinguish them in the most intuitive way:
- Look at the shape: Oolong tea is usually rolled into tight "balls," while Pouchong tea is in natural "twisted strips."
- Taste the flavor: Oolong has a heavier taste, with a rich sense of fermentation and roasting; Pouchong tea is very refreshing, drinking with a unique "floral fragrance," similar to green tea but without the astringency, very elegant.
除了包種茶，如果你運氣好，或許還能喝到「東方美人茶（Oriental Beauty Tea）」。這是我私心非常喜歡的一款茶。它的風味非常獨特，帶有一種天然的蜂蜜與熟果香氣（Honey and Ripe Fruit Aroma）。這其實是因為茶葉被小綠葉蟬叮咬後產生的自然化學變化。對於喝慣了紅茶的外國朋友來說，東方美人茶有著紅茶的溫潤，卻多了一份東方特有的蜜甜，喝上一口就讓人難以忘懷。
Besides Pouchong, if you are lucky, you might also get to taste "Oriental Beauty Tea." This is a tea I personally love very much. Its flavor is unique, carrying natural aromas of Honey and Ripe Fruit. This is actually due to a natural chemical change produced after the tea leaves are bitten by tea jassids. For foreign friends used to black tea, Oriental Beauty has the warmth of black tea but adds a unique Oriental honey sweetness; one sip is unforgettable.
特別是在 5 月到 6 月這段期間來訪，你剛好能趕上當年度「春茶」剛製作完成上市的時機。這時候的茶葉，香氣最為濃郁奔放。如果你走進當地的茶行，老闆通常都會熱情地請你試喝。別害羞，坐下來喝一杯，那是認識這款茶最好的方式。
Especially if you visit between May and June, you will catch the release of the year's fresh "Spring Tea." At this time, the tea leaves have the most intense and expressive aroma. If you walk into a local tea shop, the owner will usually enthusiastically invite you for a tasting. Don't be shy; sit down and have a cup. That is the best way to get to know this tea.
如果你對茶葉沒有研究，怕被當觀光客宰，我有個小撇步：直接去坪林區農會（茶產業文化館）買。農會出品的茶葉，雖然不會是市面上最頂級的（頂級的通常在比賽中被高價標走了），但絕對是品質穩定、價格公道、「一分錢一分貨」的保證。
如果你對茶葉沒有研究，怕被當觀光客宰，我有個小撇步：直接去坪林區農會（茶產業文化館）買。農會出品的茶葉，雖然不會是市面上最頂級的（頂級的通常在比賽中被高價標走了），但絕對是品質穩定、價格公道、「一分錢一分貨」的保證。
If you don't know much about tea and are afraid of being ripped off as a tourist, I have a little tip: go directly to the "Pinglin Farmers' Association (Tea Industry Cultural Center)" to buy. The tea produced by the Farmers' Association might not be the absolute top-tier (the best are usually auctioned off at high prices in competitions), but it is guaranteed to be of stable quality, fair price, and "you get what you pay for."
在那裡，你一定要買一盒茶葉冰淇淋。那是用真的包種茶粉製作的，每一口都能吃到濃厚的茶香，而不只是香精的甜味，在 7 月炎熱的午後吃上一口，絕對是救贖。
While you are there, you must buy a box of Tea Ice Cream. It is made with real Pouchong tea powder. Every bite is full of rich tea aroma, not just the sweetness of artificial flavoring. Taking a bite on a hot July afternoon is absolute salvation.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想和你分享一個心得：坪林是一個悠閒的小鄉鎮，非常適合花個半天來這裡走走，放慢你的腳步。如果你喜歡戶外活動，這裡甚至也是非常棒的露營地點，可以在溪邊待上一個晚上，聽著水聲入睡。最棒的是，這裡距離城市並不遠，如果真的覺得太安靜、太無聊了，隨時都可以開車穿過隧道，很快就能「逃回」台北市的繁華。這種「進可攻、退可守」的距離感，正是我最喜歡坪林的原因。
I want to share a thought with you: Pinglin is a laid-back small town, perfect for spending half a day to just wander and slow down your pace. If you enjoy outdoor activities, it's even a fantastic camping spot where you can spend a night by the stream, falling asleep to the sound of water. The best part is, it's not far from the city. If you ever find it too quiet or boring, you can drive through the tunnel and "escape back" to the bustle of Taipei in no time. This sense of distance—close enough to visit, easy enough to leave—is exactly why I love Pinglin the most.