如果在台北，你想找一個地方，既能喝到舊時代的優雅，又能感受到文學巨擘們留下的靈魂餘溫，那唯一的答案就是位於武昌街的「明星咖啡館（Astoria Cafe）」。這家店的名字本身就充滿了詩意與野心。「ASTORIA」在俄語中意指「宇宙」，而當它來到台北，創辦人將其譯為「明星」，寓意它是浩瀚宇宙中最美麗的那顆星星。走上這座老建築的二樓，你推開的不只是一扇門，而是一個封存了台北半世紀風華的時光膠囊。
If you are in Taipei and looking for a place where you can sip on old-world elegance and feel the lingering souls of literary giants, the only answer is Astoria Cafe on Wuchang Street. The name itself is full of poetry and ambition. "ASTORIA" means "Universe" in Russian, and when it arrived in Taipei, the founders translated it as "Ming Sing" (Star), symbolizing the most beautiful star in the vast universe. Walking up to the second floor of this old building, you push open not just a door, but a time capsule that has sealed half a century of Taipei's grandeur.
漂泊的貴族：十月革命、流亡者與俄羅斯第一夫人
你也許會好奇，為什麼在亞熱帶的台北，會有一間血統如此純正的俄羅斯咖啡館？這源於一段被遺忘的歷史大遷徙。1917 年俄國爆發十月革命，許多拒絕接受共產體制的貴族、皇室成員與軍官（歷史上稱為「白俄」）被迫逃離家鄉。他們先是流亡到了中國的哈爾濱與上海，在租界過著流離失所的生活。1949 年，隨著政局再次動盪，這群曾經顯赫的貴族又跟隨著國民政府跨海來到了台灣。
You might wonder, why is there such an authentic Russian cafe in subtropical Taipei? This stems from a forgotten mass migration. After the October Revolution broke out in Russia in 1917, many aristocrats, royals, and officers who refused to accept the communist regime (historically known as "White Russians") were forced to flee their homeland. They first exiled themselves to Harbin and Shanghai in China, living displaced lives in the concessions. In 1949, as political turmoil struck again, this group of once-prominent nobles followed the Nationalist government across the sea to Taiwan.
其中最傳奇的例子，就是台灣曾經有一位俄羅斯籍的總統夫人——蔣方良女士（Faina Ipatyevna Vakhreva）。她是前總統蔣經國在蘇聯留學時遇見的妻子。對於像她這樣遠嫁異鄉的總統夫人，或是像創辦人喬治·艾斯尼（George Elsner）這樣流亡半生的白俄貴族來說，台北的明星咖啡館不只是餐廳，而是他們在異鄉唯一能找到的靈魂避難所。這裡正宗的羅宋湯與俄式麵包，是他們與遙遠故鄉僅存的味覺連結。
The most legendary example is that Taiwan once had a Russian First Lady—Madame Chiang Fang-liang (Faina Ipatyevna Vakhreva). She was the wife whom former President Chiang Ching-kuo met while studying in the Soviet Union. For a First Lady married far from home like her, or for White Russian aristocrats like founder George Elsner who had spent half their lives in exile, Taipei's Astoria Cafe was more than a restaurant; it was the only spiritual refuge they could find in a foreign land. The authentic Borscht and Russian bread served here were their remaining gustatory links to a distant homeland.
明星的誕生：孕育台灣文學的書桌
然而，讓明星咖啡館真正成為傳奇的，不是俄國人，而是一群窮困卻才華洋溢的台灣作家。在 1960 到 1980 年代，這裡是台灣現代文學的聖地，地位等同於巴黎的左岸咖啡館。當時的作家大多清貧，買不起昂貴的餐點，但簡錦錐先生總是默許他們點一杯咖啡就坐上一整天，甚至在他們趴在桌上寫作時，貼心地將燈光調亮。
However, what truly made Astoria Cafe a legend was not the Russians, but a group of impoverished yet brilliantly talented Taiwanese writers. From the 1960s to the 1980s, this was the holy land of modern Taiwanese literature, akin to the cafes on the Left Bank of Paris. Writers back then were mostly poor and couldn't afford expensive meals, but Mr. Chien always tacitly allowed them to sit all day with just one cup of coffee, even thoughtfully brightening the lights when they hunched over the tables to write.
看看這份常客名單，你會驚訝於這間店的能量：
- 周夢蝶（Zhou Mengdie）：這這位傳奇詩人長年在咖啡館樓下的騎樓擺書攤，在此度過了他如苦行僧般的詩意人生，成為武昌街最孤獨也最美的風景。
- 白先勇（Pai Hsien-yung）：他的經典名作《台北人》中的許多故事，或許就是在這裡構思的。他和《現代文學》雜誌的夥伴們，常據此地激辯文學。
- 三毛（Sanmao）：在她去撒哈拉沙漠流浪之前，這裡是她安放靈魂的角落。
- 黃春明（Huang Chun-ming）：台灣鄉土文學大師，甚至寫過一首詩〈皇冠與布鞋〉來紀念他在這裡的日子。
- 林懷民（Lin Hwai-min）：在創辦雲門舞集之前，他也曾是這裡的常客。
Look at this list of regulars, and you will be amazed by the energy of this place:
- Zhou Mengdie: This legendary poet set up a bookstall under the arcade downstairs for years, living his ascetic, poetic life there, becoming the loneliest yet most beautiful scenery on Wuchang Street.
- Pai Hsien-yung: Many stories in his classic Taipei People were likely conceived here. He and his colleagues from Modern Literature magazine often occupied tables here to debate literature.
- Sanmao: Before she wandered to the Sahara Desert, this was the corner where she rested her soul.
- Huang Chun-ming: A master of Taiwanese nativist literature, he even wrote a poem to commemorate his days here.
- Lin Hwai-min: Before founding the Cloud Gate Dance Theatre, he was also a frequent visitor.
這些大師在明星咖啡館的大理石桌上，寫下了影響華人世界深遠的作品。這裡是台灣文學起飛的跑道，空氣中彷彿還飄散著當年的墨水味與煙草味。
On the marble tables of Astoria, these masters penned works that profoundly influenced the Chinese-speaking world. This was the runway for the takeoff of Taiwanese literature; the air seems to still carry the scent of ink and tobacco from those years.
時代的裝潢與味覺：深紅色的俄羅斯風情
走進店內，你會被那種濃郁的懷舊感包圍。深褐色的木造傢俱、酒紅色的絨布高背椅、以及那來自義大利的古典大理石桌，這一切都維持著 40 年前的模樣。燈光總是調得略顯昏黃，營造出一種適合私語與沉思的氛圍。這裡沒有現代咖啡店的工業風或極簡主義，只有一種老派的、溫暖的厚重感。
Walking inside, you are enveloped by a rich sense of nostalgia. Dark brown wooden furniture, burgundy velvet high-backed chairs, and classical Italian marble tables—everything remains as it was 40 years ago. The lighting is always kept slightly dim, creating an atmosphere perfect for whispers and contemplation. There is no industrial chic or minimalism of modern cafes here, only an old-school, warm heaviness.
至於食物，你必須嘗試這裡的羅宋湯（Russian Borscht）。不同於台式改良版，這裡堅持使用甜菜根熬煮，湯色呈現美麗的紫紅色，搭配酸奶（Sour Cream），口感酸甜濃郁，这是最正統的東歐滋味。此外，基輔炸雞（Chicken Kiev）也是一絕，切開酥脆的外皮，香料奶油從雞胸肉中流出，那是舊時代的高級享受。
As for the food, you must try the Russian Borscht. Unlike the localized Taiwanese versions, they insist on using beetroots, giving the soup a beautiful purplish-red hue. Served with sour cream, the taste is rich, sweet, and tangy—the most authentic flavor of Eastern Europe. Additionally, the Chicken Kiev is superb; cut open the crispy crust, and herb butter flows out from the chicken breast. It is a luxury enjoyment from a bygone era.
專程來買的甜點：俄羅斯軟糖
如果你已經吃飽了，請務必去一樓的麵包店帶走一樣東西：俄羅斯軟糖（Russian Soft Candy / Marshmallow）。這可不是普通的棉花糖。它是當年俄國皇室御用的點心，也是蔣經國夫人蔣方良女士的最愛。
If you are already full, you must go to the bakery on the first floor to take one thing with you: Russian Soft Candy. This is no ordinary marshmallow. It was a dessert served to the Russian Imperial Court and was the favorite of Madame Chiang Fang-liang.
它的口感非常奇妙，介於棉花糖與慕斯之間，Q 彈中帶著細緻的空氣感，中間夾著脆口的核桃。它需要在低溫下手工攪拌製作，即使在今天的俄羅斯也不容易吃到了，卻在台北被完整地保存下來。許多內行的老台北人，甚至是日本觀光客，都會專程來買這一味。吃一口，你嚐到的不只是甜味，還有那位遠嫁來台的俄國第一夫人，對故鄉遙遠的思念。
Its texture is magical, somewhere between a marshmallow and mousse—chewy yet filled with delicate airiness, interspersed with crunchy walnuts. It requires manual stirring at low temperatures. Even in Russia today, it is hard to find, yet it has been perfectly preserved in Taipei. Many knowledgeable old Taipei locals, and even Japanese tourists, make special trips just to buy this. Take a bite, and you taste not just sweetness, but the distant longing for home of that Russian First Lady who married into Taiwan.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想和你分享一個心得：來明星咖啡館，不要只是為了喝咖啡。帶一本書，或者一本筆記本，挑一個靠窗的位子坐下。想像一下，也許五十年前，白先勇或三毛就坐在你現在坐的這個位子上，看著同樣的街景，寫下了傳世的文字。這裡不只是一間餐廳，它是台北這座城市的「文藝復興」原點。在這裡，你可以暫時從繁忙的現代生活中抽離，在那杯俄式咖啡的蒸氣中，與那些偉大的靈魂進行一場跨越時空的對話。這是我在台北最喜歡的、能讓心安靜下來的角落。
I want to share a thought with you: Don't come to Astoria Cafe just for the coffee. Bring a book, or a notebook, and pick a seat by the window. Imagine that perhaps fifty years ago, Pai Hsien-yung or Sanmao sat in the very seat you are in now, looking at the same street scene, writing words that would be passed down for generations. This is not just a restaurant; it is the origin point of Taipei's "Renaissance." Here, you can momentarily detach from the busy modern life and, amidst the steam of that Russian coffee, have a dialogue across time and space with those great souls. This is my favorite corner in Taipei to quiet the mind.