在台北市南昌路，有一棟被高牆與老樹環繞的優雅建築。老一輩的台北人習慣叫它「陸軍聯誼廳」，但現在它掛回了更具歷史重量的名字——「孫立人將軍官邸」。這裡不僅是古蹟，更是一間對外開放的餐廳。曾經是平價美味的軍官食堂，如今則轉型為提供精緻懷舊料理的場所。關於這裡的菜到底好不好吃，老實說，這是一個見仁見智的問題。許多從聯誼廳時期就常來的老饕，或許會懷念當年那種大盤滿意、價格親民的「老兵味」；而新一代的食客，則更著迷於在玻璃花房裡用餐的氛圍。但無論如何，我仍強烈建議你來這裡吃頓飯。因為你在這裡咀嚼的，不只是料理，而是一位傳奇將軍被折斷翅膀的後半生。
On Nanchang Road in Taipei, an elegant building surrounded by high walls and old trees stands quietly. Older Taipei residents are used to calling it the "Army Officers' Club," but now it has reclaimed a name with more historical weight—"General Sun Li-jen Residence." This is not just a historic site but a restaurant open to the public. Once an affordable and delicious officers' canteen, today it has transformed into a venue for refined nostalgic cuisine. Is the food good? Honestly, it's a matter of opinion. Many gourmets who frequented the place during its "Club" era might miss the hearty, budget-friendly "old soldier flavors," while a new generation of diners is captivated by the atmosphere of dining in the glass conservatory. Regardless, I strongly recommend you come here for a meal. Because here, you are chewing on not just cuisine, but the broken-winged latter half of a legendary general's life.
建築的身世：僅次於台北賓館的「和洋二館」
在談論將軍之前，我們先看看這棟房子。它是目前台北僅次於台北賓館（Taipei Guest House）的第二大日治時期官舍建築，由傳奇建築師森山松之助（Moriyama Matsunosuke）操刀——他也是台灣總督府（今總統府）的設計者。
Before discussing the General, let's look at the house itself. It is currently the second-largest existing official residence from the Japanese colonial era in Taipei, second only to the Taipei Guest House. It was designed by the legendary architect Moriyama Matsunosuke, who also designed the Governor-General's Office (now the Presidential Office).
這棟建於 1909 年的建築，最初是「台北水道課長」官邸，後來升格為「台灣軍司令官官邸」。其格局採用了當時最高等級官舍標準的「和洋二館（Wayo-Nikan）」配置，這一點與台北賓館（昔日的總督官邸）是一模一樣的。也就是說，它由一棟西洋式洋館（Yokan）與一棟日本式和館（Wakan）相連而成。洋館用於接待賓客、舉辦宴會，展現殖民政府的現代化威儀；後方連接的和館則用於官員的日常生活與起居。這種「公私分明」、「外西內和」的空間佈局，精準地反映了當時統治階級的生活方式。
Built in 1909, this structure was originally the residence of the "Chief of the Taipei Waterworks" and was later upgraded to the "Official Residence of the Commander of the Taiwan Army." Its layout adopts the "Wayo-Nikan" (Japanese-Western Dual Building) configuration, the standard for the highest-ranking official residences of that time, which is exactly the same as the Taipei Guest House (formerly the Governor-General's Residence). This means it consists of a Western-style building (Yokan) connected to a Japanese-style building (Wakan). The Western wing was used for receiving guests and hosting banquets, displaying the modern authority of the colonial government; the connected Japanese wing in the back was for the daily life and residence of the officials. This distinct separation of "public and private," "Western exterior and Japanese interior," accurately reflects the lifestyle of the ruling class at that time.
森山松之助在這裡展現了精湛的設計理念。雖然洋館外觀是西洋式的木造洋房，擁有優雅的快樂山形式屋頂（Gambrel Roof）和魚鱗般的屋瓦，但為了適應台灣炎熱潮濕的氣候，他設計了環繞建築的寬闊迴廊（Veranda）。這些迴廊不僅能遮陽擋雨，更創造出了一種通透的空間感。走在裡面，你會感覺到一種奇妙的混血氣質：腳下是發出聲響的木地板，頭頂是西式的挑高天花板，而窗外則是南國的熱帶植物。
Here, Moriyama demonstrated his masterful design concepts. Although the Western wing's exterior features an elegant Gambrel Roof with fish-scale tiles, he designed wide verandas surrounding the building to adapt to Taiwan's hot and humid climate. These verandas not only provided shade and shelter from rain but also created a sense of spatial transparency. Walking inside, you feel a marvelous hybrid temperament: creaking wooden floors beneath your feet, Western-style high ceilings above, and tropical plants outside the windows.
空間的轉身：從日式官舍到將軍的牢籠
戰後，這棟建築被國民政府接收，並進行了局部改造以符合新的使用需求。最明顯的改變在於內部裝飾與家具的「中國化」，試圖在日式洋房的骨架中注入中華文化的靈魂。然而，這種更動並沒有破壞原本的結構，反而形成了一種獨特的歷史疊加感。
After the war, the building was taken over by the Nationalist government and underwent partial modifications to suit new needs. The most obvious change was the "Sinicization" of the interior decoration and furniture, an attempt to inject the soul of Chinese culture into the frame of a Japanese-Western house. However, these changes did not destroy the original structure; instead, they created a unique sense of historical layering.
當你坐在如今已改建為餐廳的「玻璃花房」用餐時，那種感受是強烈的。陽光透過玻璃灑落在白色的桌巾上，你看著窗外那棵據說是孫將軍親手種植的玫瑰，會有一種時空錯置的感覺。這裡曾經是日本司令官展現威儀的地方，後來卻成為了孫立人將軍被軟禁時，望著窗外嘆息的角落。建築本身是美的，但那份美感中，總是透著一股淡淡的、揮之不去的寂寞。
When you dine in the "Glass Conservatory" (a modern addition/renovation), the feeling is intense. Sunlight spills through the glass onto the white tablecloths. Looking at the rose bushes outside—said to have been planted by General Sun himself—you feel a displacement in time. This was once where Japanese commanders displayed their authority, but it later became the corner where General Sun Li-jen sighed while gazing out the window during his house arrest. The architecture is beautiful, but within that beauty, there is always a faint, lingering loneliness.
餐桌上的轉型：從「陸軍聯誼廳」到「官邸料理」
關於這裡的食物，這是一個有趣的轉型案例。在過去「陸軍聯誼廳」的時代，這裡是許多退伍軍人和老台北人的私房食堂，菜色走的是紮實、油潤、下飯的路線，價格親民，充滿了豪邁的眷村氣息。
Regarding the food, this is an interesting case of transformation. In the era of the "Army Officers' Club," this was a private canteen for many veterans and old Taipei residents. The dishes were hearty, oily, and perfect with rice—affordable and full of the bold spirit of military dependents' villages.
現在轉型為「孫立人將軍官邸」餐廳後，經營團隊試圖復刻一種更精緻的「官邸料理」體驗。雖然老客人可能會覺得價格變貴了、份量變精緻了，少了點當年的草根味，但有些經典菜色依然值得一試。例如蔥油餅，依然保持著厚實酥脆的水準，咬下去麵香四溢；還有雪菜百頁與紅燒獅子頭等江浙菜，試圖重現當年將軍家宴的滋味。正如我所說，口味見仁見智，但能在這樣的歷史古蹟中用餐，那份「吃氣氛」的價值，或許已經超越了食物本身。
Now transformed into the "General Sun Li-jen Residence" restaurant, the management attempts to recreate a more refined "Residence Cuisine" experience. While old patrons might feel the prices have gone up and portions have become daintier—lacking the grassroots flavor of the past—some classics are still worth trying. For example, the Scallion Pancake remains thick and crispy, bursting with the aroma of flour upon the first bite. There are also Zhejiang dishes like Snow Vegetable with Bean Curd Sheets and Braised Lion's Head Meatballs, attempting to reproduce the flavors of the General's family banquets. As I said, taste is subjective, but the value of "eating the atmosphere" in such a historical monument perhaps transcends the food itself.
東方隆美爾：孫立人的榮耀與悲劇
孫立人將軍（General Sun Li-jen）對於西方軍事迷來說，可能是最知名的中華民國將領。他畢業於美國維吉尼亞軍校（VMI），說著一口流利的英語。他被稱為「東方隆美爾（The Rommel of the East）」，在二戰時期的緬甸仁安羌之戰中，以極少的兵力擊退日軍，解救了七千多名被包圍的英軍，一戰成名。
General Sun Li-jen is perhaps the most well-known ROC general to Western military enthusiasts. A graduate of VMI, he spoke fluent English. Known as "The Rommel of the East," he gained fame in the Battle of Yenangyaung in Burma during WWII, where he used a small force to repel the Japanese army and rescue over 7,000 besieged British troops.
但正是這份才華與「美式背景」，注定了他悲劇的命運。孫立人非黃埔軍校嫡系，又與美國關係過於密切，這讓剛失去大陸江山、極度缺乏安全感的蔣介石深感威脅。1955 年，蔣介石解除了孫立人的職務，並將他軟禁。這位戰神就這樣被關進了這座華麗的官邸，開始了長達 33 年的軟禁生涯。這棟房子從榮耀的官邸，變成了囚禁英雄的黃金鳥籠。
But this talent and "American background" sealed his tragic fate. Not being from Chiang Kai-shek's inner circle (Whampoa Academy) and having close ties with the US made him a threat to the insecure Chiang. In 1955, Chiang relieved Sun of his duties and placed him under house arrest. The God of War was thus confined in this magnificent residence, beginning a 33-year captivity. This house turned from a glorious residence into a golden cage for a hero.
意想不到的遺產：大象林旺爺爺
在沈重的歷史之外，孫立人還給台灣留下了一個最溫馨的禮物——大象林旺（Lin Wang）。這頭大象原本是日軍在緬甸使用的戰象，被孫立人的部隊俘虜後，跟著軍隊一路跋涉來到台灣。林旺後來住在台北市立動物園，陪伴了三代台灣人長大。每當台灣的老人家回憶起孫立人，總會笑著說：「是啊，林旺就是跟著孫將軍來的。」這頭大象成為了那位被抹去名字的將軍，與台灣這塊土地最溫柔的連結。
Beyond the heavy history, Sun left Taiwan with a heartwarming gift—Lin Wang the elephant. Originally a Japanese war elephant in Burma, Lin Wang was captured by Sun's troops and marched with them to Taiwan. He later lived in the Taipei Zoo, accompanying three generations of Taiwanese people. Whenever elderly Taiwanese recall Sun Li-jen, they smile and say, "Yes, Lin Wang came with General Sun." This elephant became the gentlest connection between the erased general and the land of Taiwan.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想和你分享一個心得：當你坐在官邸的玻璃花房裡用餐時，請環顧四周。這棟房子太美了，美得讓人忘記它曾經是個牢籠。孫立人的故事提醒我們，在威權時代，才華有時是比平庸更危險的罪名。這裡的每一道菜，或許口味見仁見智，但都佐著一段無法被消化的歷史。吃完飯後，去看看庭院裡的老樹，它們看過日本司令官的威儀，也看過孫將軍的落寞。這不只是一間餐廳，它是台灣歷史最沈默的見證者。
I want to share a thought with you: When you dine in the glass conservatory of the Residence, please look around. This house is so beautiful that one forgets it was once a cage. Sun Li-jen's story reminds us that in an authoritarian era, talent can sometimes be a more dangerous crime than mediocrity. The taste of every dish here may be subjective, but they are all seasoned with a history that is hard to digest. After your meal, go look at the old trees in the courtyard; they have witnessed the majesty of the Japanese commanders and the loneliness of General Sun. This is not just a restaurant; it is the most silent witness to Taiwan's history.