走在台北的街頭,你很容易辨識出清代的廟宇或是日治時期的紅磚建築。但如果你夠仔細,你會發現這座城市還隱藏著第三種深刻的紋理——那是來自太平洋彼岸的美國印記。從 1950 年代到 1970 年代,美軍協防台灣,大量的美國軍人、眷屬與物資進入了這座島嶼。這不僅僅是軍事上的駐紮,更是一場長達二十年的文化撞擊。對於台灣來說,那是一段特殊的青春期,我們在傳統的稻米香中,第一次聞到了奶油與爵士樂的味道。

Walking through the streets of Taipei, it is easy to identify Qing Dynasty temples or red brick buildings from the Japanese colonial era. But if you look closely enough, you will discover a third, profound texture hidden in the city—imprints from the United States across the Pacific. From the 1950s to the 1970s, as the US military helped defend Taiwan, a large influx of American soldiers, their families, and supplies entered the island. This was not just a military stationing; it was a cultural collision that lasted for two decades. For Taiwan, it was a unique adolescence; amidst the traditional scent of rice, we smelled butter and jazz for the first time.
如果你想看見最清晰的美軍痕跡,請往山上走。在陽明山的山仔后區域,保留著全台灣最完整的美軍宿舍群。這裡曾是駐台美軍眷屬的家。即使在今天,當你走進這片區域,會有一種瞬間移動到美國南方郊區的錯覺。低矮的白色木屋、寬闊的草坪、家家戶戶必備的壁爐與煙囪,這些完全不屬於亞熱帶台灣的建築語彙,卻在這裡奇異地生根。
If you want to see the clearest traces of the US military, head up the mountain. In the Shanzaihou area of Yangmingshan, the most complete US Military Housing Complex in Taiwan is preserved. This was once home to the families of American soldiers stationed here. Even today, walking into this area gives you the illusion of being instantly transported to a suburb in the American South. Low white wooden houses, spacious lawns, and the essential fireplaces and chimneys—architectural vocabularies completely foreign to subtropical Taiwan—have strangely taken root here.
當年的這片「小美國」,是台灣人窺探西方現代生活的窗口。如今,這些老房子被改建成了時髦的咖啡廳與餐廳(如美軍俱樂部 Brick Yard 33 1/3)。在週末的午後,坐在曾經的美軍俱樂部裡喝一杯可樂,聽著黑膠唱片,那是台灣年輕人重新詮釋這段歷史的方式:它不再是軍事禁地,而是復古美學的遊樂場。

Back then, this "Little America" was a window for Taiwanese people to peek into Western modern life. Today, these old houses have been converted into trendy cafes and restaurants (such as the Brick Yard 33 1/3). On a weekend afternoon, sitting in the former club drinking a Coke and listening to vinyl records is how young Taiwanese reinterpret this history: it is no longer a restricted military zone, but a playground of retro aesthetics.
沿著山路往下走,中山北路曾是台灣最國際化的「外交大道」。這裡曾坐落著美國大使官邸(現在的台北光點 Spot Taipei)。這棟白色的洋房建築,見證了中美高層的社交往來與生活品味。而以此為中心向外輻射,周邊的林森北路與雙城街,在當年發展出了獨特的酒吧與夜生活文化。
Heading down the mountain road, Zhongshan North Road was once Taiwan's most international "Diplomatic Avenue." This was the site of the US Ambassador's Residence (now Spot Taipei). This white Western-style building witnessed the closest moments of US-Taiwan social exchanges and lifestyle. Radiating from this center, the surrounding Linsen North Road and Shuangcheng Street developed a unique bar and nightlife culture back in the day.
天母的「小留學區」與生活印記
再往北邊走,美軍留下的另一塊重要文化飛地,就是今日的天母。雖然陽明山有宿舍,但天母更是許多軍官、技術人員與家眷日常生活的重心。由於美軍對居住環境有嚴格要求,天母在當時被規劃為一個高級住宅區,配有廣大的庭院、游泳池、甚至網球場,這在 60 年代的台北是極度奢華的存在。美軍福利社(PX Store)的設立,讓當地成為舶來品與美式文化交流的中心。時至今日,天母依然是台北國際學校密度最高、異國風情最濃厚的區域,街道上充滿了寬闊的人行道與西式餐廳,這一切,都始於當年的美軍駐紮。
Tianmu: The "Little Expat Zone" and Lifestyle Imprints
Further north, another significant cultural enclave left by the US military is today's Tianmu district. While Yangmingshan housed families, Tianmu became the daily life hub for many officers, technical personnel, and dependents. Due to strict US military housing requirements, Tianmu was planned as a high-end residential area, featuring large yards, swimming pools, and even tennis courts—an extreme luxury in 1960s Taipei. The establishment of the US military Post Exchange (PX Store) made the area a central point for imported goods and American cultural exchange. To this day, Tianmu remains the district with the highest density of international schools and the strongest exotic atmosphere in Taipei, with streets full of wide sidewalks and Western restaurants. All of this began with the US military presence of that era.
那是台北最早的異國情調。為了服務休假的美軍,這裡開設了無數販賣漢堡、牛排與播放西洋音樂的酒吧。這些酒吧和美軍俱樂部,更是台灣流行音樂最早的「實戰學院」。
音樂的衝擊與學習:爵士樂、鄉村音樂與早期的搖滾樂,就是從這裡流進了台灣人的耳朵,並催生了台灣第一代駐唱樂隊。 當時的台灣樂手,為了賺取更高的收入,會想方設法學習模仿美軍樂隊或點唱機裡的西洋歌曲。他們在沒有正規教材的情況下,只能憑藉聽力,從美軍俱樂部的舞台下學習吉他、薩克斯風和鼓點。這種充滿野性與活力的學習方式,讓台灣流行音樂在早期就與全球音樂脈動接軌。學會演奏美式搖滾和爵士,是當年台灣頂尖樂手的入場券。
That was Taipei's earliest taste of exoticism. To serve American soldiers on leave, countless bars opened selling burgers, steaks, and playing Western music. These clubs and bars were Taiwan's earliest "boot camps" for popular music.
The Impact and Learning of Music:Jazz, country music, and early rock 'n' roll flowed into Taiwanese ears from here, giving rise to Taiwan's first generation of resident bands. To earn higher wages, Taiwanese musicians at the time would try every means to learn and imitate the Western songs played by US military bands or on jukeboxes. Without formal sheet music, they relied solely on listening, learning guitar riffs, saxophone lines, and drum beats from the stages of US military clubs. This wild and vibrant learning method allowed Taiwanese popular music to connect with global musical trends early on. Mastering American rock and jazz was the entry ticket for top Taiwanese musicians of that era.
在這片霓虹燈下,還有一個不可忽視的群體:當年的台灣女性。在那個物資匱乏的年代,美軍俱樂部與酒吧不僅是娛樂場所,更是許多女性改變命運的賭桌。為了賺取比工廠女工高出數倍的薪水,許多女性投入了這個產業,被稱為「吧女(Bar Girl)」。這並非單純的聲色犬馬,而是一種生存的選擇。她們是最早學會穿迷你裙、畫眼線、講美式英語的一群人。對她們來說,這不僅是一份工作,更隱含著一個「美國夢」——希望能嫁給大兵,拿到綠卡,遠離貧窮。這段歷史留下了許多悲喜交加的故事,也造就了當時台灣社會獨特的混血兒世代與異國婚姻現象。
Under these neon lights, there was a group that cannot be ignored: the Taiwanese women of that era. In those times of scarcity, US military clubs and bars were not just entertainment venues but gambling tables where many women sought to change their destinies. To earn wages many times higher than factory workers, many women entered this industry, becoming known as "Bar Girls." This was not merely about debauchery; it was a choice for survival. They were the first group to learn how to wear miniskirts, apply eyeliner, and speak American English. For them, this was more than a job; it embodied an "American Dream"—the hope of marrying a GI, getting a green card, and escaping poverty. This history left behind many bittersweet stories, as well as a unique generation of mixed-race children and cross-cultural marriages in Taiwanese society.
然而,美軍留給台灣最深遠的影響,或許不在建築,而在我們的餐桌上。你是否好奇過,為什麼以米食為主的台灣人,現在早餐會習慣吃麵包、喝牛奶,甚至如此熱愛水餃與牛肉麵?這一切都源於當年的「美援」時期。

However, the most profound influence the US military left on Taiwan might not be in architecture, but on our dining tables. Have you ever wondered why Taiwanese people, whose staple food is rice, are now accustomed to eating bread and drinking milk for breakfast, or why they love dumplings and beef noodles so much? It all stems from the "US Aid" era.
當時美國為了援助台灣,運來了大量的麵粉、小麥與奶粉。為了消化這些物資,政府大力推廣「麵食運動」,教導家庭主婦做饅頭、包水餃、烤燒餅。這改變了台灣人的飲食基因。著名的「中美合作」麵粉袋,不僅裝飽了台灣人的胃,那些堅固的棉布袋甚至被惜物的台灣媽媽裁製成孩子們的內衣褲。那是物資缺乏年代的集體記憶,既艱辛又溫馨。我們今天習以為常的早餐店文化——燒餅油條配豆漿(或牛奶),其實就是那段歷史下的混血產物。
At that time, to aid Taiwan, the US shipped massive amounts of flour, wheat, and milk powder. To consume these supplies, the government vigorously promoted a "Flour Food Movement," teaching housewives how to make mantou (steamed buns), dumplings, and baked sesame flatbreads. This changed the dietary DNA of Taiwanese people. The famous "Sino-American Cooperation" flour sacks not only filled Taiwanese stomachs; the sturdy cotton sacks were even tailored by thrifty mothers into underwear for their children. It is a collective memory of an era of scarcity, both hard and heartwarming. The breakfast shop culture we take for granted today—sesame flatbreads with soy milk (or milk)—is actually a hybrid product of that history.

CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想和你分享一個觀點:當我們回看美軍在台灣的這段歷史,不需要把它看作是單純的軍事駐紮,也不必帶有過多的悲情或批判。這其實是一場意外的文化相遇。那個時代的台灣,因為這群美國客人的到來,被迫也好、主動也好,打開了一扇通往世界的窗。
I want to share a perspective with you: When we look back at the history of the US military in Taiwan, we don't need to view it purely as a military occupation, nor do we need to view it with too much sorrow or criticism. It was, in fact, an accidental cultural encounter. Taiwan in that era, because of the arrival of these American guests—whether forced or voluntary—opened a window to the world.
下次當你在陽明山的美軍宿舍喝咖啡,或者在早餐店咬下一口鬆軟的饅頭時,請想起那段時光。那些留下來的建築、音樂和口味,都已經內化成台灣生活的一部分。這就是台灣最可愛的地方:我們總是能將外來的衝擊,溫柔地消化,最後變成屬於我們自己的、獨一無二的底蘊。
Next time you sip coffee in a former US military dormitory on Yangmingshan, or take a bite of a fluffy mantou at a breakfast shop, remember that time. The architecture, music, and flavors left behind have all been internalized into parts of Taiwanese life. This is the most lovely thing about Taiwan: we are always able to gently digest external impacts, eventually turning them into our own unique heritage.
