位於大稻埕圓環旁的賓王大飯店，外觀看起來或許有些陳舊，甚至帶著一點歲月的滄桑感，但請不要輕視它。這棟大樓的所在地，擁有著全台北最顯赫的餐飲血統——它是昔日台北四大酒家之首蓬萊閣的原址。在 1920 年代，蓬萊閣是台灣士紳與反殖民運動領袖聚會的聖地，象徵著台灣料理的頂點。雖然舊建築已不復存在，但賓王大飯店完美封存了延續自 1970 年代那種生猛、紙醉金迷的氛圍。紅色的地毯、昏黃的燈光、以及一間間隱密的包廂，對於想要理解台灣百年宴客歷史（History of Banqueting）的國際旅客來說，這裡就是真正的歷史現場。
Located near the Dadaocheng Circle, the Binwang Grand Hotel might look a bit dilapidated and worn from the outside, but do not underestimate it. This building stands on a site with the most illustrious culinary lineage in Taipei—it is the original location of "Peng Lai Ge," the leader of the historic "Four Great Alcohol Houses." In the 1920s, Peng Lai Ge was the gathering place for Taiwanese gentry and anti-colonial leaders, representing the pinnacle of Taiwanese cuisine. Although the original structure is gone, Binwang perfectly encapsulates the raw, glitzy energy inherited from the 1970s. The red carpets, dim yellow lighting, and rows of private dining booths make it the authentic historical site for international travelers to understand Taiwan's century-old history of banqueting.
活著的文化遺產：傳說中的那卡西A Living Cultural Heritage: The Legend of "Nakasi"
- 走進賓王，最珍貴的體驗在於聲音。這裡保留了全台北極其罕見的活體文化——那卡西（Nakasi）。那卡西源自日文的流し（Nagashi），意指流動的走唱藝人。在卡拉OK尚未發明的年代，生意人在酒樓談生意時，會請樂師帶著手風琴或吉他，現場伴奏助興。不同於現代全靠電腦點歌，在賓王，你至今仍然可以預約到真正的那卡西樂隊。這些國寶級的樂師精通上千首歌曲，能即興跟隨客人的情緒轉調、變奏。這不只是音樂，這是當年大老闆們藉由酒精與歌聲拉近商業關係的豪邁傳統，是一場不可複製的現場演出。
Stepping into Binwang, the most precious experience lies in the sound. It preserves a rare, living cultural heritage in Taipei—Nakasi. Derived from the Japanese word "Nagashi" (meaning "flowing"), it refers to strolling musicians. Before the invention of Karaoke, businessmen would hire musicians with accordions or guitars to provide live accompaniment during banquets. Unlike modern digital karaoke, at Binwang, you can still book a live Nakasi band. These master musicians know thousands of songs and can improvise, changing keys and tempos to match the guests' mood. This is not just music; it is the bold tradition of how tycoons cemented business deals through alcohol and song—a live performance that cannot be replicated.
味覺歷史：傳承自蓬萊閣的酒家菜基因Culinary History: The "Jiu Jia Cai" DNA Inherited from Peng Lai Ge
- 這裡供應的料理被稱為酒家菜（Jiu Jia Cai），這是台灣飲食史上一顆璀璨的明珠。它起源於日治時期的高級私人會所，如腳下的蓬萊閣舊址。簡單來說，這是富人的食物。酒家菜的特點是精緻、繁複，且必須重口味以搭配烈酒。它融合了福建菜的鮮美、日本料理的細膩（重視海鮮與冷盤）、以及廣東菜的技法。這不是一般的家庭料理，而是當年台灣仕紳階級為了炫耀財富與品味，要求廚師使用頂級乾貨與食材研發出的奢華下酒菜。
The cuisine served here is known as "Jiu Jia Cai" (Alcohol House Cuisine), a shining pearl in Taiwan's culinary history. It originated in exclusive private clubs of the Japanese colonial era, much like the former Peng Lai Ge that once stood here. Simply put, this was "rich people's food." Jiu Jia Cai is characterized by sophistication, complexity, and bold flavors designed to pair with strong spirits. It fuses the umami of Fujian cuisine, the delicacy of Japanese cuisine (focusing on seafood and cold cuts), and Cantonese cooking techniques. This is not home cooking; it is luxurious bar food created by Taiwan's gentry class to flaunt their wealth and taste, demanding chefs use top-tier dried goods and ingredients.
必嚐經典：傳說中的魷魚螺肉蒜The Must-Have: The Legendary Squid Snail Garlic Soup
- 如果來賓王只能點一道菜，那絕對是魷魚螺肉蒜（Squid Snail Garlic Soup）。這道菜是酒家菜的皇冠，也是台灣人共同的味覺記憶。這鍋湯的靈魂在於三種食材的完美碰撞：乾魷魚、罐頭螺肉、與大量青蒜。請細細品嚐它的湯頭：師傅先將乾魷魚油炸爆香，釋放出濃縮的海洋鮮味（Umami），再加入特定品牌的螺肉罐頭，那帶著甜味的濃稠醬汁是湯頭甘甜的來源。最後，加入新鮮的蒜苗燉煮。當你喝下一口，你會先感受到螺肉的甜，接著是魷魚的鹹香爆發，最後是蒜苗的微辛辣在喉頭回甘。螺肉吃起來肉質肥厚彈牙，炸過的魷魚則吸飽了湯汁，展現出富有嚼勁的層次感。這是一道名副其實的鮮味炸彈。
If you can only order one dish at Binwang, it must be the Squid Snail Garlic Soup. This dish is the crown jewel of Jiu Jia Cai and a collective taste memory for Taiwanese people. The soul of this soup lies in the perfect collision of three ingredients: dried squid, canned snails, and a massive amount of green garlic leeks. Savor the broth carefully: the chef first deep-fries the dried squid to release a concentrated burst of ocean umami. Then, they add a specific brand of canned snails; the sweet, thick brine from the can is the secret source of the soup's sweetness. Finally, fresh garlic leeks are added to simmer. When you take a sip, you first taste the sweetness of the snails, followed by an explosion of savory squid, and finally, the mild spiciness of the leeks lingering in your throat. The snails are plump and bouncy, while the fried squid absorbs the broth, offering a chewy, textural complexity. It is truly an "Umami Bomb."
功夫菜色：炸排骨酥與烏魚子Craftsmanship Dishes: Deep-Fried Pork Ribs and Mullet Roe
- 除了湯品，這裡的炸物也展現了極高的水準。台式排骨酥（Deep-fried Pork Ribs）選用帶骨豬肉，醃漬入味後裹粉油炸。它的外皮不是脆硬的，而是呈現一種酥鬆的顆粒感，肉汁被完美鎖在裡面，咬開時帶著五香粉與胡椒的香氣。另外，象徵台灣頂級食材的烏魚子（Mullet Roe）也是必點。賓王的烏魚子烤得恰到好處，外層微焦，內裡保持著如起司般的黏糯口感（Creamy and sticky），搭配白蘿蔔片或蒜苗一起吃，那種鹹鮮濃郁的風味是威士忌的絕配。
Beyond the soup, the fried dishes here demonstrate a high level of skill. The Taiwanese Deep-fried Pork Ribs use bone-in pork, marinated and battered. The crust is not hard and crunchy, but has a "loose, crispy" granular texture. The juices are locked inside, releasing aromas of five-spice powder and pepper when bitten. Additionally, Mullet Roe, a symbol of premium Taiwanese ingredients, is a must-order. Binwang grills it perfectly—slightly charred on the outside while remaining sticky and creamy on the inside (like a dense cheese). Eaten with slices of white radish or garlic leeks, its rich, salty-savory flavor is the perfect match for whiskey.
CORE 給朋友的真心建議A Sincere Recommendation for Friends
賓王大飯店不是一個適合獨自前往的地方。這是一個喧鬧的社交場域，請盡量湊齊幾位好朋友一同前往。不要被那看起來像時光停滯的舊電梯嚇到，那是進入體驗的一部分。作為朋友，我建議您如果預算允許，一定要試著請店家安排一位那卡西樂師，那會是整晚的高潮。站在蓬萊閣的舊址上，當那鍋熱騰騰的魷魚螺肉蒜上桌時，請務必點一瓶台灣啤酒或高粱酒，學著周圍的台灣大叔大聲乾杯。在這裡，優雅不是重點，豪邁才是通用的語言。這是你在任何旅遊書上都找不到的，最充滿江湖味的台北之夜。
Binwang Grand Hotel is not a place for solo dining. It is a raucous social arena, so try to gather a group of friends to go with you. Do not be intimidated by the old elevator that looks like it’s stuck in time; it is part of the initiation. As a friend, if your budget allows, I highly recommend asking the venue to arrange a Nakasi musician for you—that will be the highlight of the night. Standing on the historic site of Peng Lai Ge, when that steaming pot of Squid Snail Garlic Soup arrives, you must order a Taiwan Beer or Kaoliang liquor and learn to toast loudly like the Taiwanese uncles around you. Here, elegance is not the point; boldness is the universal language. This is a night in Taipei full of "Jianghu" (underground/brotherhood) flavor that you won't find in any guidebook.