台北的財富起點:大稻埕的百年貿易與第一批「老錢」

The Origin of Taipei's Old Money: Daitōtei's Century of Trade and First Wealth

· PEOPLE

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如果你想追溯台北近代繁榮的起點,答案就在淡水河邊的大稻埕(Daitōtei)。這片區域從清末的商業港口開始發跡,經歷了台灣茶葉與布料貿易的黃金時代,並將其巨大財富與獨特品味,刻印在迪化街的紅磚拱廊與巴洛克式立面上。走進大稻埕,你就像走進了一本活的歷史書,每一條街道、每一棟建築,都充滿了跨越時代的商業精神與人文故事。

If you want to trace the starting point of modern Taipei's prosperity, the answer lies on the banks of the Tamsui River at Daitōtei (大稻埕). This area began as a commercial port in the late Qing Dynasty, experienced the golden age of Taiwan's tea and textile trade, and imprinted its immense wealth and unique taste onto Dihua Street's red brick arcades and Baroque facades. Walking into Daitōtei is like stepping into a living history book, where every street and every building is imbued with a cross-generational spirit of commerce and human stories.

要真正理解大稻埕的風華,我們必須從一場族群的衝突開始說起。清代中葉,緊鄰此地的艋舺(Monga)是台北最早的商業中心,但因為泉州同安人與三邑人之間的械鬥衝突(著名的頂下郊拼),同安人被迫遷徙至更北邊的港口——大稻埕。他們在這裡重新建立商業勢力,並逐漸超越艋舺,成為台北最核心的貿易中心。在這個動盪的過程中,宗教信仰是社群安定的核心。迪化街區最核心的媽祖信仰中心——慈聖宮,成為了當地人精神上的堡壘。媽祖不僅是漁民的守護神,更是商賈們出海貿易、祈求平安的信仰依託。至今,慈聖宮依然是大稻埕的靈魂所在。

The story of Daitōtei begins with an ethnic conflict. Monga (艋舺), adjacent to this area, was Taipei's first commercial hub in the mid-Qing Dynasty. However, due to conflict between the Quanzhou Tongan people and the Sanyì people (known as the Ting-Hsia Chiao Ping), the Tongan faction was forced to move north to a new port—Daitōtei. Here, they successfully re-established their commercial power, eventually surpassing Monga to become Taipei's central trading hub. In this turbulent process, religious belief was the core element stabilizing the community. Cihsheng Temple (慈聖宮), the central Mazu sanctuary in the Dihua Street area, became the spiritual fortress for the locals. Mazu was not only the patron goddess of fishermen but also the spiritual anchor for merchants setting sail to pray for safe passage and prosperity. To this day, Cihsheng Temple remains the soul of Daitōtei.

這份從貿易中累積的巨大財富和獨特品味,最直接的體現,就在於迪化街的建築立面。這裡保留了典型的閩南式街屋(長條店屋)結構:店面狹窄,內部空間深長,以利於儲存貨物和維持家族生活。然而,當你抬頭看向立面,會發現這是一種建築的混血美學。在日治時期,隨著貿易帶來的財富,商人們紛紛引進西方設計,將樸實的店面換上了華麗的巴洛克式裝飾立面(牌樓頭)。這些立面融合了歐洲古典的希臘柱頭、羅馬拱窗,並結合了花草浮雕與中式圖騰。此外,街區的紅磚拱廊(亭仔腳)則提供了騎樓功能,既遮陽避雨,也成為商販活動的空間。這棟棟建築,訴說著當時迪化街商人「賺在地錢,享國際品味」的時代精神。

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The immense wealth and unique taste accumulated from trade are most directly reflected in the architectural facades of Dihua Street. It retains the structure of typical Fujianese street houses (long, narrow shop-houses), where the facade is narrow but the interior runs deep, allowing for storage and family living. However, when you look up at the facades, you discover an architectural hybrid. During the Japanese colonial period, wealth from trade allowed merchants to introduce Western designs, transforming simple storefronts into elaborate Baroque decorative facades (paifang heads). These facades blend European classical elements like Greek columns and Roman arches with floral reliefs and Chinese motifs. Furthermore, the district's red brick arcades (ting-a-ka) provided sheltered walkways, functioning both as sun/rain covers and merchant activity space. Each building tells the story of the Dihua Street merchants who "earned local money but enjoyed international taste."

但大稻埕之所以能維持百年不衰,是因為這裡掌握了台灣傳統經濟的三大核心命脈。首先是南北貨與乾貨:迪化街是台灣人過年辦年貨的必經之地。這裡販售的各式乾貨,從香菇、干貝、魷魚到鮑魚,是台灣人餐桌上海味鮮味的來源。這裡的氣味,是台灣人集體的「年味」記憶。接著是中藥材:許多老字號中藥行仍堅守在此,體現了亞洲傳統的養生觀念。走進中藥行,鼻尖會被濃郁的人參、枸杞與當歸的獨特氣味包圍。這些藥材不僅用於治病,也用於藥膳湯頭,是台灣人食補文化中不可或缺的一環。最後是布市與紡織:永樂市場是台灣紡織業的聖地。這裡堆滿了來自世界各地的布料,從傳統的花布到最新的機能纖維應有盡有。這裡不僅是裁縫師的尋寶地,也是無數台灣時尚設計師與文創產品的創意起點。

Daitōtei’s ability to thrive for a century stems from its control over three core lifelines of Taiwan's traditional economy. The first is Dried Goods and General Merchandise: Dihua Street is the essential destination for Taiwanese people preparing for the Lunar New Year. The wide variety of dried goods sold here—from mushrooms and scallops to squid and abalone—is the source of the savory, umami flavors on the Taiwanese dinner table. The aroma of this street is the collective memory of "New Year's flavor." Next is Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM): Many time-honored TCM pharmacies still operate here, embodying traditional Asian health concepts. Walking into a TCM shop, your nose is enveloped by the distinct aroma of ginseng, goji berries, and angelica root. These herbs are used not only for medicine but also in medicinal soups, an essential part of the Taiwanese health-tonic food culture. Finally, there's Textiles and Fabric Market: Yongle Market (永樂市場) is the Mecca of Taiwan's textile industry. It is stacked high with fabrics from around the world, ranging from traditional floral prints to the latest functional fibers. This is not just a treasure trove for tailors; it is the creative starting point for countless Taiwanese fashion designers and cultural/creative products.

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然而,如果說建築和商品是骨架,那麼大稻埕的靈魂,則在於它將信仰、飲食與生活完美地融為一體,充滿了儀式感。請在早上造訪慈聖宮,你將看到一幅獨特的廟口早餐風景。在巨大榕樹下,一排排老攤販經營著傳統的台式早餐,食客們坐在小桌子上,一邊吃著肉粥、魚丸湯,一邊仰望著媽祖廟。這是一種將「敬神」與「庶民美食」連結在一起的獨特儀式。時至今日,大稻埕的魅力在於新舊世代之間的文化對話。許多堅守百年的南北貨老店,旁邊正是一家家由年輕人進駐的文創咖啡廳、設計選品店與精釀啤酒吧。這種新舊之間的張力與和解,讓大稻埕成為了一個永不老去的街區,充滿了生命力。

However, if architecture and goods are the skeleton, the soul of Daitōtei lies in its seamless integration of faith, food, and daily life, imbued with a sense of ritual. Visit Cihsheng Temple in the morning, and you will witness a unique Temple Square Breakfast Scene. Beneath the huge banyan tree, a row of old vendors serve traditional Taiwanese breakfast. Diners sit at small tables, eating savory congee and fish ball soup while looking up at the Mazu temple. This is a unique ritual that links "worship" with "common people's food." Today, Daitōtei's charm lies in the cultural dialogue between the old and new generations. Many centennial dried goods shops operate right next to creative coffee shops, design boutiques, and craft beer bars opened by young entrepreneurs. This tension and reconciliation between the old and the new make Daitōtei a district that never ages, constantly vibrant with life.

CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends

我想和你分享一個心得:大稻埕的價值,早已超越了一個貿易商圈的定義。它是一個「活的博物館」,在這裡,你不只是買了一包乾貨或一塊布料,你還帶走了台灣人如何從港口邊的草創,走向近代文明的堅韌故事。下次造訪台北,請放慢腳步,走進這片充滿歷史風華的紅磚迷宮,去體驗台北百年貿易精神、族群融合與生活美學的必經之地。

I want to share a thought with you: Daitōtei's value has already transcended the definition of a simple commercial district. It is a "Living Museum." Here, you don't just buy a bag of dried goods or a piece of fabric; you take away the resilient story of how the Taiwanese people transitioned from a humble port settlement to modern civilization. The next time you visit Taipei, please slow down, step into this red brick labyrinth filled with historical grandeur, and experience this essential stop for Taipei's century-old spirit of commerce, ethnic fusion, and life aesthetics.