八德路上的微醺麵攤:小龍飲食、黑金滷味與台北人的宵夜儀式

A Tipsy Noodle Stall on Bade Road: Xiaolong, "Black Gold" Braised Dishes, and Taipei's Late-Night Ritual

· DINING

如果有外國朋友來台北,指名要體驗台灣最道地的「麵攤文化(Noodle Stall Culture)」,想切點滷味、配瓶啤酒,我通常不會帶他們去觀光夜市,而是直奔八德路巷弄裡的「小龍飲食(Xiaolong Eating)」。先說在前頭,這裡的環境並沒有特別舒適,就跟台灣街頭常見的傳統麵攤差不多:簡單的折疊桌、板凳,沒有什麼精緻的裝潢。但正是這種樸實無華的氛圍,配上水準極高的食物,才構成了最真實的台北滋味。

If a foreign friend comes to Taipei asking to experience the authentic "Noodle Stall Culture"—wanting to order some braised dishes and crack open a beer—I usually skip the tourist night markets and head straight to "Xiaolong Eating" in the alleys of Bade Road. I should be clear upfront: the environment here isn't particularly comfortable. It's just like your standard traditional Taiwanese noodle stall with simple folding tables and stools, lacking any fancy decor. But it is precisely this unpretentious atmosphere, paired with exceptionally high-quality food, that constitutes the most authentic taste of Taipei.

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必須先說個實話:每個台灣人心目中最好吃的麵攤,永遠是自己家巷口那一間。這是一種不可撼動的鄉愁。但小龍飲食對我來說,是一個特殊的公約數。它經營了四十多年,從路邊攤做到雙店面,雖然有些台北人會戲稱它是「最貴的麵攤」,但正因為這稍微偏高的價位,篩選掉了一些過於喧鬧的人流,留下了一種屬於台北中產階級的、恰到好處的熱鬧與活力。

I must be honest: for every Taiwanese, the "best" noodle stall is always the one right around the corner from their home. That is an unshakable nostalgia. However, Xiaolong Eating is a special common denominator for me. Operating for over forty years, it has grown from a roadside stall to a double-front shop. Although some locals jokingly call it "the most expensive noodle stall," this slightly higher price point filters out the overly chaotic crowds, leaving behind a bustle and vitality that feels just right for Taipei's middle class.

麵與主食:醬汁的煉金術

來到這裡,點餐是一門學問。我最常點的是招牌的「小龍麵(Xiaolong Noodles)」。這碗麵是醬汁的煉金術,混合了沙茶、麻醬與炸醬,濃郁的香氣包裹著每一根麵條,每一口都是重擊味蕾的滿足感。另外還有傳說中的**「珍妮麵」**(其實是老客人的隱藏吃法,也就是牛油拌麵),作法非常簡單,卻擁有令人驚豔的濃郁香氣,那是熟客之間的默契。

Ordering here is an art. My go-to is the signature "Xiaolong Noodles." This bowl is an alchemy of sauces, blending Shacha (sand tea sauce), sesame paste, and Zhajiang (bean paste). The rich aroma coats every strand of noodle, delivering a satisfying punch to the taste buds with every bite. There’s also the legendary "Jenny Noodles" (an off-menu secret among regulars, essentially noodles tossed in aromatic beef fat). It is incredibly simple yet possesses a stunning fragrance, representing a tacit understanding among old patrons.

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如果你喜歡口感豐富的,「牛肉湯餃」是個好選擇,飽滿的餃子吸滿了紅燒牛肉湯的精華;而「紅油炒手」則展現了台式川味的精髓,辣油香而不嗆,餛飩皮薄餡鮮。

If you prefer rich textures, the "Beef Soup Dumplings" are an excellent choice, with plump dumplings absorbing the essence of the braised beef broth. The "Spicy Wontons" (Hong You Chao Shou) showcase the essence of Taiwanese-Sichuan flavor—the chili oil is fragrant without being choking, and the wonton skins are thin with fresh fillings.

滷味:鎮店之寶「黑金」傳說

說實話,很多人來小龍不是為了吃麵,而是為了它的滷味(Luwei / Braised Dishes)。這裡的滷味被譽為台北最強之一,特色是滷得極其入味,外表呈現一種深褐色的光澤,我們稱之為「黑金」。

To be honest, many people come to Xiaolong not for the noodles, but for the Luwei (Braised Dishes). Their braised selection is hailed as one of the best in Taipei, characterized by being deeply flavorful with a dark brown, glossy sheen we call "Black Gold."

你一定要切一盤大拼盤。豆干的孔隙吸飽了滷汁,咬下去會爆漿;滷牛肉切得薄厚適中,保留了肉的紋理與香氣;牛腸處理得非常乾淨,軟嫩中帶著嚼勁。我有朋友非常熱愛這裡的香腸,那種古早味的油脂香氣配上生大蒜,是台灣男人的浪漫。甚至,我還陪朋友點過相當罕見的雞冠,那種膠質滿滿的口感,是給大膽食客的獎賞。

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You must order a large platter. The pores of the Dried Tofu are soaked in marinade, bursting with juice when bitten; the Braised Beef is sliced to the perfect thickness, retaining the meat's texture and aroma; the Beef Intestines are cleaned meticulously, offering a tender yet chewy texture. I have a friend who adores the Sausage here; that old-school fatty aroma paired with raw garlic is a romance for Taiwanese men. I even once accompanied a friend to order the rare Cockscomb; its gelatinous texture is a reward for the bold diner.

小菜與配角:怪味雞與極好的辣椒

在等待滷味上桌前,先來幾盤小菜。「怪味雞(Strange Flavor Chicken)」是必點。這道菜的視覺與味覺都極具衝擊力:上層鋪滿了用菠菜、蔥蒜打成的翠綠色「中式青醬」,覆蓋在鮮嫩的白斬雞腿肉上;底部則襯著帶有花椒麻香的紅辣油。入口時,你會覺得它像極了川菜的「口水雞」,但菠菜醬的清香卻巧妙地中和了辣度,讓整體口感更加溫潤且層次豐富。

Before the braised dishes arrive, grab a few appetizers. The "Strange Flavor Chicken" is a must-order. It offers a striking visual and gustatory impact: the top layer is a vibrant green "Chinese-style pesto" made from blended spinach, scallions, and garlic, blanketing tender boiled chicken leg meat. Underneath lies a bed of red chili oil infused with numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Upon tasting, it resembles the Sichuan dish "Mouth-Watering Chicken" (Kou Shui Ji), but the fresh aroma of the spinach sauce cleverly balances the heat, making the overall texture milder and richer in layers.

至於「炸豆腐」則是外酥內嫩,簡單卻考驗火候。不過,關於他們家的「泡菜」,我必須誠實地說:評價相當兩極。它走的是一種特殊的發酵酸味路線,我是屬於「吃過一次就不會再點」的那一派。但或許這種獨特的味道,正是某些人的心頭好。

As for the "Fried Tofu", it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, simple but testing the chef's control of heat. However, regarding their "Kimchi" (Pickled Cabbage), I must be honest: opinions are extremely polarized. It follows a specific fermented sour profile, and I belong to the "tried it once, never again" camp. But perhaps this unique flavor is exactly what someone else loves.

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還有一個關鍵配角:辣椒。敢吃辣的朋友,請務必嘗試他們自製的辣椒醬。對我來說,辣椒是一間麵攤的靈魂,小龍的辣椒香氣足、辣度夠,沾一點點就能讓滷味的味道提升到另一個層次。

There is also a key supporting character: Chili Sauce. Friends who can handle spice must try their homemade chili sauce. To me, chili is the soul of a noodle stall. Xiaolong's chili is fragrant and potent; just a little dip elevates the braised dishes to another level.

18天生啤酒與綠豆湯:完美的句點

在這裡用餐,最完美的搭配是一瓶冰透的「18天台灣生啤酒」。那種只有 18 天賞味期的鮮度,能洗去滷味的鹹膩,讓對話更加熱絡。而在酒足飯飽之後,別忘了來一碗「綠豆湯」。這在麵攤中很少見,但那種熬得綿密、甜度適中的綠豆湯,能瞬間降火解膩,是這場饗宴最溫柔的句點。

The perfect pairing for a meal here is an ice-cold bottle of "18-Day Taiwan Draft Beer." Its freshness, with only an 18-day shelf life, washes away the saltiness of the braised food and enlivens the conversation. And after you've had your fill of food and wine, don't forget a bowl of "Green Bean Soup." It's rare in noodle stalls, but this dense, moderately sweet soup instantly cools you down and cuts the grease, providing the gentlest finish to this feast.

CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends

我想和你分享一個心得:小龍飲食並不是一間安靜的高級餐廳,這裡充滿了碗盤碰撞聲與客人的談笑聲,那是台灣人特有的活力與生命力。有人喜歡這種熱鬧,有人覺得吵雜,但正因為那稍微偏高的價位,讓這裡的氛圍維持在一種「有質感的喧囂」中。我建議你在微醺之後,沿著八德路或附近的巷弄散步。在台北的夜色中,剛吃完美食的滿足感會隨著涼風沁入心脾,這就是台北生活中最美好的一件事。

I want to share a thought with you: Xiaolong Eating is not a quiet, high-end restaurant. It is filled with the clatter of dishes and the laughter of guests—that is the unique vitality and life force of Taiwanese people. Some love this liveliness, others find it noisy, but the slightly higher prices maintain the atmosphere in a state of "quality bustle." I suggest that after getting a little tipsy, you take a walk along Bade Road or the nearby alleys. In the Taipei night, the satisfaction of a good meal will sink into your heart with the cool breeze. This is truly one of the most beautiful things about life in Taipei.