在台灣生活，學會與「熱」共處是一門必修課。台灣的熱不是那種乾爽的曝曬，而是一種黏稠的、無處可逃的濕熱。在這種時候，走進冰店不只是為了吃甜點，更像是一種急救措施。但我今天想跟你分享的，不只是「冰」，而是冰的「形態」。在台灣，即使是冰，也有千變萬化的呈現方式：從日治時期留下來的粗獷刨冰、戰後發展出的綿密泡泡冰，到帶有空氣感的古早味叭噗。今天帶你去的這幾間店，都是擁有數十年歷史的老字號，它們賣的不只是涼爽，更是台灣橫跨半世紀的甜蜜時光。
Living in Taiwan, learning to coexist with the "heat" is a mandatory course. The heat here isn't a dry scorch; it's a sticky, inescapable humidity. At times like these, walking into an ice shop isn't just about having dessert; it feels more like a first-aid measure. But what I want to share with you today isn't just "ice," but the "forms" of ice. In Taiwan, ice presents itself in myriad ways: from the rugged shaved ice left over from the Japanese colonial era, to the dense "Bubble Ice" developed post-war, to the airy, old-school "Ba-pu." The shops I'm taking you to today are all heritage establishments with decades of history. They sell not just coolness, but the sweet memories of Taiwan spanning half a century.
冰的系譜：一場跨越百年的混血實驗
Genealogy of Ice: A Century-Long Hybrid Experiment
你可能會好奇，為什麼一個亞熱帶島嶼會有這麼豐富的冰品文化？這其實是一段關於殖民、移民與美援的混合歷史。
You might wonder, why does a subtropical island have such a rich ice culture? This is actually a hybrid history of colonization, migration, and US aid.
1. 日本時期：製冰技術與清冰的誕生台灣人吃冰的習慣，最早確實是日本人帶來的。在 1900 年代，日本人引進了製冰機，讓「吃冰」從王公貴族的特權變成了庶民的享受。當時最流行的，是一種只加糖水與香蕉油（Banana Oil）的「清冰」。那種透明、純粹，帶有一種人工水果香氣的味道，是台灣冰品最早的記憶，也是一種日式的極簡美學。
1. Japanese Era: Ice-Making Tech and the Birth of "Clear Ice"The habit of eating ice in Taiwan was indeed introduced by the Japanese. In the 1900s, they brought in ice-making machines, turning "ice eating" from a privilege of the aristocracy into a common pleasure. The most popular style back then was "Clear Ice" (Kiyogo), flavored only with sugar water and banana oil. That transparent, pure taste with a hint of artificial fruit aroma is the earliest memory of Taiwanese ice and a form of Japanese minimalist aesthetics.
2. 戰後移民：八寶冰的豐盛堆疊1949 年後，隨著國民政府遷台，帶來了大量的江浙與南方移民。他們雖然沒有直接帶來新的冰，但他們帶來了家鄉的「甜湯文化」。他們將原本熱著吃的紅豆湯、綠豆湯、煮芋頭、湯圓等配料，豪邁地鋪在日式的刨冰上。於是，一種結合了日式冰底與中式甜湯配料的「八寶冰」誕生了。這象徵了那個時代的融合：冰是冷的，但上面的料是溫熱且豐盛的。
2. Post-War Immigrants: The Abundance of "Eight Treasure Ice"After 1949, the Nationalist government's relocation to Taiwan brought a wave of immigrants. While they didn't bring new ice per se, they brought their hometown "Sweet Soup Culture." They generously heaped ingredients usually eaten hot—like red bean soup, mung bean soup, stewed taro, and glutinous rice balls—onto the Japanese shaved ice. Thus, "Eight Treasure Ice" was born, combining a Japanese ice base with Chinese sweet soup toppings. It symbolized the fusion of that era: the ice was cold, but the toppings were warm and abundant.
3. 美軍與叭噗：對冰淇淋的在地轉譯到了 1950 年代美援時期，美國帶來了奶粉與麵粉，也帶來了西方「冰淇淋（Ice Cream）」的概念。但在那個物資依然不充裕的年代，鮮奶油是昂貴的。台灣人發揮了創意，利用樹薯粉（澱粉）勾芡來取代乳脂肪，製作出了口感帶有黏性、不易融化且更清爽的「台式冰淇淋」，也就是我們俗稱的「叭噗（Ba-pu）」。
3. US Military & Ba-pu: Localizing Ice CreamIn the 1950s US aid era, Americans brought milk powder and flour, along with the concept of "Ice Cream." But in those resource-scarce times, fresh cream was expensive. Taiwanese people got creative, using tapioca starch as a thickener to replace milk fat, creating a "Taiwanese Ice Cream" that was slightly sticky, slow to melt, and more refreshing—what we locally call "Ba-pu."
：1920 年代的豪華八寶冰
Longdu Ice Fruit Professional: The Luxurious Eight Treasure Ice from the 1920s
這間位於艋舺（萬華）的老店創立於 1920 年，是貨真價實的百年老店。走進店裡，你首先會被門口櫃檯裡堆積如山的配料給震撼，那是一種屬於老派市場的豐盛美學。
Founded in 1920, this shop located in Monga (Wanhua) is a genuine century-old establishment. Walking in, you are first struck by the mountain of toppings piled high in the counter at the entrance—a rich aesthetic belonging to old-school markets.
【必嚐風味】這裡的招牌是**「八寶冰」。老闆毫不手軟地在粗顆粒的鑽石冰山上，鋪滿了綠豆、紅豆、花豆、芋頭、花生等八種配料。這裡的煮工了得，每一種豆子都熬煮得綿密卻不軟爛，外型完整，咬下去卻是沙沙的口感。特別是他們的小湯圓**，即使埋在冰裡也不會變硬，依然保持著軟糯（Chewy）的彈性。還有那塊切成角狀的芋頭，口感紮實Q軟，帶著濃郁的芋香。這碗冰像是在挖掘寶藏，每一口都有不同的驚喜，那是屬於老萬華的豪邁與熱情。
【Must-Try Flavors】The signature here is the "Eight Treasure Ice." The owner generously covers the mountain of coarse "diamond ice" with eight kinds of toppings, including mung beans, red beans, pinto beans, taro, and peanuts. The cooking skill here is superb; every bean is cooked to be dense but not mushy, retaining its shape while offering a sandy texture upon biting. I especially love their small glutinous rice balls (Tangyuan), which remain soft and chewy even when buried in ice. And the chunks of taro are solid yet bouncy, rich in aroma. Eating this bowl of ice is like digging for treasure; every bite holds a different surprise, reflecting the boldness and hospitality of old Monga.
：1941 年的大樹下記憶
Jianzhong Black Sugar Shaved Ice: Memories Under the Banyan Tree Since 1941
創立於 1941 年，這間店最初只是建國中學圍牆邊的一個小攤子。這裡以前最大的特色，就是可以看到一群穿著卡其色制服的高中生，蹲在圍牆邊的大樹下吃冰。順帶一提，旁邊的這所紅樓建築——建國中學（Jianzhong），創立於 1898 年日治時期，當時稱為「臺北一中」，是全台灣第一所公立中學。那棟標誌性的紅磚洋樓見證了百年的歷史變遷。作為台灣最頂尖的男子高中，這裡孕育了無數政商名流與學術菁英。對許多掌握台灣命運的大人物來說，這碗冰不只是消暑，更是他們穿著卡其制服、在升學壓力下唯一的甜蜜逃氣口。
Founded in 1941, this shop started as a small stall next to the wall of Jianguo High School. In the past, the most distinctive feature here was seeing groups of high school students in khaki uniforms squatting under the big tree by the wall to eat ice. By the way, the red brick building next door—Jianguo High School (Jianzhong)—was founded in 1898 during the Japanese colonial period as "Taihoku First Middle School," the first public high school in Taiwan. That iconic red brick building has witnessed a century of history. As the top boys' high school in Taiwan, it has nurtured countless political, business, and academic elites. For many influential figures who shape Taiwan's destiny, this bowl of ice is not just for cooling down, but a sweet escape from academic pressure during their days in khaki uniforms.
【必嚐風味】這家店的靈魂在於那鍋黑糖漿。不同於一般的二砂糖水，這裡的黑糖經過長時間熬煮，濃稠得像墨汁一樣，帶有一種接近焦糖甚至微微煙燻的深邃香氣。當黑糖漿淋在刨冰上，那種單純的甜味混合著冰塊的脆響，非常過癮。我建議你一定要加**「黑糖粉粿」**，這是用木薯粉製作的傳統點心，口感介於果凍與麻糬之間，極度Q彈，吸滿了黑糖的香氣，是簡單卻無敵的組合。
【Must-Try Flavors】The soul of this shop lies in its Black Sugar Syrup. Unlike ordinary cane sugar syrup, the black sugar here is boiled for a long time until it's as thick as ink, carrying a deep aroma akin to caramel or even a hint of smoke. When the black sugar syrup is poured over the shaved ice, the pure sweetness mixed with the crunch of the ice is incredibly satisfying. I suggest you must add the "Black Sugar Jelly Cake" (Fen Guie). Made from tapioca starch, its texture falls between jelly and mochi—extremely chewy and bouncy, soaking up the black sugar aroma. It is a simple yet invincible combination.
：1972 年的雪花革命
Xin Fa Ting Ice Shop: The Snow Ice Revolution of 1972
來到士林夜市，一定要去創立於 1972 年的辛發亭。它是台灣**「雪花冰（Snow Ice）」**的始祖之一。不同於傳統刨冰是將冰塊削碎，雪花冰是將調味過的奶磚放入機器，削出一層層像百褶裙一樣的摺疊冰片。
When you come to Shilin Night Market, you must go to Xin Fa Ting, founded in 1972. It is one of the pioneers of "Snow Ice" in Taiwan. Unlike traditional shaved ice where ice blocks are crushed, snow ice involves shaving flavored milk blocks into layers of folded ice sheets that look like pleated skirts.
【必嚐風味】口感上，它幾乎是「入口即化」的極致。我個人最喜歡的是抹茶紅豆雪片。那個冰一碰到舌頭就化成濃郁的液體，完全不需要咀嚼，抹茶的微苦與煉乳的甜味在口中交融。另一款經典是新鮮草莓雪片（季節限定），酸甜的草莓配上奶香濃郁的雪花冰，那種溫柔的口感，在逛完擁擠喧鬧的夜市後，是一種極佳的撫慰。
【Must-Try Flavors】In terms of texture, it is the ultimate "melt-in-your-mouth" experience. My personal favorite is the Matcha Red Bean Snow Ice. The ice turns into a rich liquid the moment it touches your tongue, requiring absolutely no chewing, as the slight bitterness of matcha blends with the sweetness of condensed milk. Another classic is the Fresh Strawberry Snow Ice (seasonal); the sweet and sour strawberries paired with the milky snow ice offer a gentle texture that is an excellent comfort after wandering through the crowded and noisy night market.
1947 年的味覺極限挑戰
Snow King Ice Cream: The Ultimate Flavor Challenge Since 1947
這間位於西門町附近的老店創立於 1947 年，它以擁有 73 種口味的冰淇淋聞名。但讓它成為傳奇的，不是口味多，而是口味「怪」。
Located near Ximending, this shop was founded in 1947 and is famous for having 73 flavors of ice cream. But what makes it a legend isn't the quantity of flavors, but how "weird" they are.
【必嚐風味】這裡有麻油雞、豬腳、肉鬆這類鹹味冰淇淋。這聽起來很瘋狂，但我曾經帶外國朋友挑戰過「肉鬆冰淇淋」，意外地發現那種鹹甜交織的味道其實很像某些法式甜點（Salty-Sweet）的邏輯，裡面甚至吃得到肉鬆的纖維。當然，如果你不想冒險，他們的水果系列如西瓜、荔枝也非常棒，那是真材實料的水果打出來的，吃起來就像是在吃冰凍過的水果本人。這間店代表了台灣老一輩人勇於嘗試的幽默感。
【Must-Try Flavors】They have savory ice creams like Sesame Oil Chicken, Pig Knuckle, and Pork Floss. It sounds crazy, but I once took a foreign friend to challenge the "Pork Floss Ice Cream," and we surprisingly found that the mix of salty and sweet actually follows the logic of some French desserts, and you can even taste the fibers of the meat floss. Of course, if you don't want to take risks, their fruit series like Watermelon or Lychee is also excellent. Made from real fruit, it tastes just like eating the frozen fruit itself. This shop represents the courageous sense of humor of the older Taiwanese generation.
：1955 年的手打綿密
Keelung Night Market Whipped Ice: Hand-Beaten Density Since 1955
如果你願意跑遠一點到基隆廟口夜市，別忘了去吃一杯創立於 50 年代的綿綿冰（又稱泡泡冰）。這裡的冰不是機器削的，而是師傅用湯匙在碗裡手工「打」出來的。
If you are willing to go a bit further to the Keelung Miaokou Night Market, don't forget to have a cup of Mian Mian Bing (also known as Bubble Ice), which originated in the 1950s. The ice here isn't shaved by a machine but is hand-beaten in a bowl by the chef using a spoon.
【必嚐風味】一定要點花生口味。這是一場視覺與味覺的表演，看著師傅將刨好的冰沙與濃稠的花生醬快速攪拌、按壓，直到兩者完美融合，空氣被拌入冰中。吃起來的口感介於冰淇淋與冰沙之間，極度濃郁卻又爽口（Creamy yet Refreshing）。那種花生的香氣會在嘴裡停留很久，是我每次去基隆一定要完成的儀式。
【Must-Try Flavors】You must order the Peanut flavor. This is a visual and gustatory performance. Watch the chef rapidly stir and press the shaved ice slush with thick peanut butter until they merge perfectly, incorporating air into the ice. The texture falls somewhere between ice cream and slushie—extremely creamy yet refreshing. The aroma of peanuts lingers in your mouth for a long time; it's a ritual I must complete every time I go to Keelung.
：懷舊的香蕉油清冰
這間店位於石牌，雖然創立時間不如前幾間久遠，但它致力於復刻台灣早期的農村風味。店內擺滿了舊時代的農具與腳踏車，賣的是一種氛圍。
Located in Shipai, although not as old as the previous ones, this shop is dedicated to recreating the flavors of early rural Taiwan. Decorated with old-time farming tools and bicycles, they sell an atmosphere.
【必嚐風味】我推薦他們的**「半舊冰」。這款冰的基底是「香蕉油清冰」**（Banana Oil Ice），這是一種台灣早期特有的古早味。在那個物資缺乏的年代，人們用食用香蕉油加糖水製成冰，吃起來有一種獨特的人工果香，那是台灣四、五年級生的童年記憶。搭配綿密的杏仁凍與仙草，那種清爽、不甜膩的口感，會讓你有種時光倒流的錯覺，彷彿回到了那個步調緩慢的年代。
【Must-Try Flavors】I recommend their "Half-Old Ice." The base of this ice is "Banana Oil Ice," a unique old-school flavor of early Taiwan. In times of scarcity, people used edible banana oil and sugar water to make ice, which has a distinctive artificial fruity aroma—a childhood memory for Taiwanese people born in the 50s and 60s. Paired with dense almond jelly and grass jelly, the refreshing, not-too-sweet taste gives you the illusion of turning back time, as if returning to that slow-paced era.
永富冰淇淋：1945 年的純粹叭噗
Yong Fu Ice Cream: The Pure "Ba-pu" Since 1945
最後，我想介紹這間位於萬華、創立於 1945 年的老店。這裡賣的是台灣最傳統的**「叭噗（Ba-pu）」**冰淇淋。這名字源自早期沿街叫賣的冰淇淋車按下的喇叭聲。
Finally, I want to introduce this old shop in Wanhua, founded in 1945. They sell Taiwan's most traditional "Ba-pu" ice cream. The name comes from the sound of the horn honked by ice cream carts peddling on the streets in the old days.
【必嚐風味】不同於西式冰淇淋添加了大量的鮮奶油與牛奶，台式叭噗更強調食材的原味，並使用澱粉（如太白粉）來勾芡，這讓它吃起來口感帶點黏性（Sticky），但比較清爽，不會越吃越渴。我最愛他們的芋頭、紅豆與花生口味。那種淡淡的紫色與樸實的褐色，完全不靠色素，而是食材原本的顏色。這種冰淇淋沒有華麗的外表，但當你含在嘴裡，感受到那種單純的甜味時，你會明白為什麼這間店能屹立近 80 年不搖。
【Must-Try Flavors】Unlike Western ice cream which adds a lot of fresh cream and milk, Taiwanese Ba-pu emphasizes the original flavor of the ingredients and uses starch (like potato starch) as a thickener. This gives it a slightly sticky texture but makes it more refreshing to eat without making you thirsty. I love their Taro, Red Bean, and Peanut flavors the most. Those pale purples and earthy browns rely not on food coloring, but on the original colors of the ingredients. This ice cream has no fancy appearance, but when you hold it in your mouth and feel that simple sweetness, you'll understand why this shop has stood firm for nearly 80 years.
CORE 給朋友的深層視角 A Deeper Perspective for Friends
我想跟你分享一個感受：在台灣吃冰，其實是一種情感的連結。這些老冰店之所以迷人，不只是因為好吃，而是因為它們保留了這座島嶼在不同時代的溫度。無論是日治時期的紅豆冰，還是戰後美援時期的冰淇淋，它們都陪伴著台灣人度過了無數個炎熱的午後。下次當你在台北被熱氣蒸得頭昏腦脹時，隨意走進這其中一間店吧。點一碗冰，讓那股涼意順著喉嚨滑下，你會發現，這不只是降溫，這是台灣生活最美好、最透心涼的瞬間。